Carb is more $$ at this point, and to me a 1/2 ass way to get around EFI. Im sure its something stupid holding it up…
i like how he said hes putting the car away for the winter, when in reality the car was never out.
PJBFAIL
Easy on the butters, jeez you guys are ruthless :lol
ADAMFAIL
PJB:
Are you using a granetelli? If so which one?
Your computer is always expecting a 0-5.5v dc signal. The voltage to flow curve is not linear, the MAF is VERY sensitive to low flows, and less sensitive as flow increases.
The Aftermarket mafs are generally bigger physically, with the same sensor. So the curve will be the same, but the amount of flow that 5.5v represents is much more flow.
To compensate for this you would need bigger injectors. These injectors should have the same percent change in injector flow as the maf. So if your maf can flow 20% more, your injectors should flow 20% more. This keeps everything within the adjustment window of the stock ECU.
What about all your OTHER sensors? Have you checked the resistance and voltages of the IAT, MAP, and whatever other sensors you might be using? Perhaps there are sensors you SHOULD be using but are not. Perhaps your sensor problem is a sensor that does not exist but should be there…
What about O2 sensors? do you have those? Are you running a simulator? New exhaust headers?
You said you already checked the injectors. So I would look at:
- Oxygen sensors. (they directly control fuel trim)
- Maf sensors (also controls fuel)
- MAP (ditto)
- IAT (yep)
Could you perhaps try to put together a VERY detailed explination of how the engine runs and what changes happen when you unplug things…
Good luck!
Kind of my idea on it.
Well its not in its hibernation spot. It was supposed to be out.
Im using a C&L 73mm MAF. It uses a stock sensor with a different housing and sample tube.
There are two oxygen sensors on the car. Ive got 30# injectors. Stock is 19 and with my previous setup I had 24’s. The headers are the same as before.
The only sensor not being used is the EGR and Ive got a plug in eliminator for it.
Im not sure if the other sensors were checked out.
Ill try to get a better idea of whats going on.
May be as stupid as needing a mail tune… My car ran like crap with the stroker motor in it before Motorvation did up a base chip
^ Adam you are the man for having that sig, I think we should have a Shift518 “Best Sig” Contest monthly. You got my vote.
PJB- I don’t know shit about Mustangs nor do I want to, but take the free advice people have on here and get that thing running good. Don’t give up this year, you said the motor sounds good. It could be something as simple at a bad connection. Don’t just throw money at it.
Thanks nucka!! :lol
Really Id like to find out if its something other than just needing a tune first before I spent money on a tune.
Trying not to throw anymore money at it since Ive thrown too much already. The main reason for thinking about giving up is that I cant really afford to fix it much more.
Ive had alot of stuff checked out so far. Ive got a book on the EEC-IV system with troubleshooting in it.
So what is your Idle RPM and what voltage is the maf putting out at that RPM?
Should tell you everything you need to know.
Did you fucks just go ripping by my house?!?
im wonderin what system voltage is ,if its low the car is gonna run like ass as it aint gettin the volt it needs
It was idling at 1000 with the maf unplugged. With it on it doesnt idle.
Im at home so Ive got no clue
Sounds like matt is blowing up and down the street with it…
Interesting. I havent talked to him today.
Might wanna…
Went down the road and PUNCHED it right in front of my house like a dick, then came screaming back down the road about 2-3 mins later. Didnt get up quick enough to see if it was, but I know for sure it was a stang
call him paulie ,he is blowin the cherry out of your motor .that is shear dissrespect lololol