4WD = Low range and High Range gearing
AWD = Only high range gearing Part-time 4WD: No centre differential. Cannot be used on dry/wet, semi-slippery roads due to the lack of the centre differential. When activated, both front and rear axles are physically locked to each other and have to spin at the same rate. This becomes a problem when turning on sufficiently high friction surfaces. Examples: Suzuki SUVs, most 4WD pickup trucks, cheaper SUVs. Permanent 4WD:. No two wheel drive mode. System is equipped with a centre differential, and hence is safe to use on all surfaces. All four wheels are powered all of the time (usually 50/50 front and rear axles). This is arguably the best system since the torque split ratio does not change and is the most predictable. All wheels “help out” all of the time and this stabilises the vehicle + improves handling. With the extra two drive wheels, the vehicle has twice the amount of traction all of the time (even in no-slip conditions) vs. a 2WD vehicle. Examples: MB M-class SUV, the Range/Land Rovers. Full-time 4WD: Basically permanent 4WD but with a 2WD mode. This was born out of customer demand (for a 2WD mode). Examples: Toyota Sequoia, Mitsubishi Montero. Permanent AWD: Basically permanent 4WD but without low range gearing. Examples include the Audi Quattro AWD system, the MB’s 4-matic AWD system, Subaru’s manual transmission AWD system. Full-time AWD: System is active at all times, however in most cases, the one set of wheels (usually the rears) only receive 5-10% of the engine’s power unless slippage occurs. At that point, power is progressively transfered to the opposite axle to help out. Some systems can transfer power to the rear upon acceleration to improve traction. However, they revert to 2WD mode when coasting.
I am not sure. You could always look up an older model on KBB and compare the awd with the fwd.
4 wheel drive systems bind on dry pavement when you’re, say, turning in a parking lot. The wheels all have to rotate at the same speed.
AWD is definitely better handling, but 4WD you can turn off to save a little gas for 99.9% of your driving.
My Xterra is 4WD. Turning it on definitely makes it handle more predictably in the snow, even though AWD would be even better. But as Slasky said, even 2WD is fine. The most important thing is not being a retard.
Just wondering, have you ever considered a Wagon of some sort?
Out of those that you listed, I’ve test drove all of them. The RAV4 is sick nasty in v6 form.
That being said - the Outlander I actually enjoyed the most. Reliability - I don’t know, but they whore the v6 motor out in everything, as the 4 cyl, and I haven’t heard too many issues…
What kind of maintenance are we talking about here? Is Buffalo’s road “salt n’ pepper” will greatly affect the 4WD components?
I read a very brief explanation on RAV4’s 4WD over here: http://www.toyota.com/vehicles/minisite/rav4/experience/index.html. From what I understand, I have to enable the 4WD when I want to use it. On contrast, I can’t do that with CRV. So, which is the better one?
Not quite sure about the brand new models but there are a TON of subarus running around with 200+k with completely stock and original drive lines, that says something (if you are looking to keep it a long time)
I had a fully loaded Murano SE that was turned in a few months ago…end of lease.
I looked at buying the next SUV AWD, tired with driving someone elses car…looked at CR-V, RAV4, Rogue. Touched and drove 'em all. Months prior I actually had a Ford Escape Hybrid AWD fully loaded on order. Ford so royally pissed me off the last couple of months I told them to shove it, and gas was going down anyway. Hybrid was still MSRP, but you can buy any other SUV (any make) for dealer invoice now. That differential pays for a lot of gas.
Anywho: Went with the CR-V.
For all of the goodies I had in the Murano (leather, in-dash nav, rear view camera, heated seats)…only the CR-V came with that installed. The Rogue doesn’t even have nav…they sell that crappy mini unit that sits on the dash.
Other than that…I found the CVT to be ok, sometimes slow on accelleration. I miss the inteligent memory key though. Small problems with Nissan…throttlebody shot and fixed under warranty. Seats failed and broke a support rail 2 months prior to lease end. Since air bags included, no chance for recycled parts. Expensive. Also, MPG on the Murano started at 21, gradually went to 17.
Other than the installed goodies being standard on the CR-V: The other thing the CR-V has over the RAV4…CR-V is a 5 speed auto. RAV4 still uses a 4 speed. Makes no sense.
^
Doesn’t matter to me. I never manually shift on an automatic. At best, I coast in neutral sometimes to play the gas saving game…But that gets tired real fast.
205,000 selling it because I want something different still has a lot of life left