hey thanks…i did have some trouble with my negative batt. wire…when it was corroded away…i just bought a metal clamp and bolted it back to the body…its still kinda loose but it was a temp. fix…
thanks for the help i will try what you said…
Sure no problem…
Oh and I should have added, there should only be 6-10mm of play in your alternator belt. If it flexes more than that adjust the tension accordingly.
I had squeaking sounds accompanied by idle-dropping/light-dimming issues when winter started. Did some checking and found my alternator belt to be almost jaw-droppingly loose (although in mint condition). Had it adjusted and all was fixed…better dash lights, idle, driveability etc.
hmm…i get the sqeaking sounds at idle, and more pronounced when i turn on either my rear defogger or fan but my idle is fine. if i toss on some that belt dressing from CT, it goes away for a day, but then comes back. you think it’d be belt slack also? or is the pulley from the alternator crap? never happens when it’s warm out there
ill check out my altenator belt today…
thanks again
That should be either your belt tension or the belt(s) condition itself.
Press on the alternator belt (reach down from the top, not too hard to get at) with two fingers and if it’s too loose it should be pretty obvious - or at least mine was. It should only press down 6-11mm I believe as per FSM (based on newness and other factors). Also check it’s condition, make sure it isn’t cracked etc.
i’m getting the same problem. i’ve changed my spark plugs (recc stock ones),fuel filter, checked the ignition coils and i still get the same problem. but its not all the time only after a boot. i still have to clean my MAF sensor and throttle body. i’m praying that my injectors aren’t fucked. btw i’m running a S13 blacktop. hopefully an injector flush will help out.
Damn i have this problem too…ive always thaught it was just a high km condition the ka had? I uno…if you figure it out please post what worked for you!
my paseo’s alternator belt sings to me everytime i down shift or at idle.
took a bar of soap to it and it goes away for a bit lol.
any suggestions i also changed it to a new belt.
the injector flush did the trick and now it runs alot smoother then before.
engines running like shit again. now i’m thinking one of my injectors are messed.
FOOT – LOL, sorry to hear man but that was a funny post, first ur car is running smooth then …the engines running like shit again lol …hope u fix the prob…
anywayz this is whats happening with my car…
the other day i saw my egr/pcv?? (the metal L shape pipe on the valve cover) valve turned down, maybe i pressed on it when i was working on the car the other day, so i pushed it back up and the problem stopped for the night when i went to test drive the car cuz i thought that was the prob, but then the next morning it still happend…
so i taped up all the hose connections and the problem still occurs (electrical tape)
i changed the fuel filter…problem still occurs.
i still have to check the altenator belt…and i tried to find the iacv screw but had no luck…
can anyone point me in the right direction where that frickin screw it i looked like half an hour…lol dont laugh at me
thanks a lot…
omar.
dunno if this might help but when i was checking out my issue with my 240 engine shutting off [s13]. [idle would drop to ZERO while driving ] i took the car to a mechanic… when i mentioned the COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR to him he told me the engine would idle funny but that would’nt cause it to shut off. when i called the dealer on the sensor it was 42 bucks brand new. fixed the shutting off problem but the car still idles weird. so i will be changing that sensor soon.
hope that helps…
ps. the rpm does not go as low as 500 it goes to around 600 for a milli second then sometimes go up to 1200 then back down to 700-800 and so on.
good luck.
damn i thought it was only my car that has idliing probs…
2phiddysx— good luck with fixing that but it sounds like somthin to do with ur air passage, maybe ur maf…or there is a loose hose or somthing i used to have that same prob with my 94 altima the idle would jump around like that, it was because the intake stock box was not tightly connected, i mean like it was not secure there was open areas that made the mafs give a wrong reading…
hope it helps
i went to clean my maf today and there was a ton of oil inside the rubber tube. i think my PCV system is fucked. the injectors are good but i’m considering to get them reflowed.
I feel bad I didnt get here sooner, Ok I started battling this problem the second I bought my 240, It was a pain in the ass because I must have taken it to 20 different mechanics and each one told me a different theory/story as to why the idling is dropping and the car shuts off when coming to a stop at a red light or stop sign. After months of headaches of renting a car and watching mine fall apart I finally got some good news so I’ll pass it on to you.
The 240sx was designed with a small flaw in the Iacv, after anywhere of 5 years to 10 years the Iacv gets clogged real bad, keep in mind that not all 240’s have gone down this path but 75% of them will at somepoint.
To fix the problem locate your IACV, theres a bolt/screw thats usually a golden colour, thats got this plastic or rubber coating overtop of it, Scrape the coating off if theres any there and take the bolt out, inside the bolt is a spring carefull when you take all this out.
Take some Carb cleaner and clean off the inside of the Iacv with something soft that will fit or just use compressed air to blast it all out, You will probally see specks of black tar and dust and other greasy crap eventually come out if it was dirty which I can tell you right now it is. After cleaning it all out, put the spring and screw back in and adjust your idling so its about 650/700 rpm.
The Iacv on some models is hard to get to, its located just underneath the throttlebody and intakes so you may have to remove the throttlebody off your 240. If you want a quick temporary fix so you can drive your car for a few days to a few weeks without it messing around to much, Remove your AAC valve and cap the end of the intake with some wire tape. I do not recogmend this as emissions due tend to get a bit rough but its a quick fix. Once the AAC valve is disconnected the air intake gets boosted a bit just blasting a little bit more thru the Iacv fixing the problem temporary. Eventually the Iacv will just become more clogged and you will have to clean it. I also reside in brampton if you need help feel free to contact me.
Oh and P.S, Buy some throttlebody cleaner from crappy tire and blast some of that into your intake while someone revs your car up.
after all these posts i guess im 99% sure when i say the IACV is causing all of our probs…
BreedOfSpawn – wow thanks for that good post…i know for sure your right but im kind of skeptical when it comes to idiling/timing issues, i dont really want to take the screw all the way OUt but i guess i have to…i might just endup fuckin up my car more than anything lol but i will try definetly…thanks alot!
Omar.
throttlebody cleaner helps for sure. I had taht problem during fall, so I too out my air intake pipe and took a look at the plate. Lo an dbehold, it was dirty as hell. I took a clean rag, TB cleaner and just took 30min to clean the plate. Put the intake back on and sprayed it while I was reving teh car by the cable. After that it was all good. Oh and I cleaned my MAF also which helps imensly if you often see your air filter covered in black.
Dont worry to much about it Omar the screw is pretty easy to replace if anything goes wrong, Kouki’s have plastic ones I know my Chuki’s metal. If your still nervous let me know I’ll give ya a hand.
thanx m8. will def try a little bit of this and some of what Breed was saying… seems like 240s have a bit of problems here and there. all in all the most fun car i own yet! 
good luck with all the taking off and putting back. just make sure you gots all ten fingers when your done. lol
is this screw the same on the SR20DET?