i can only hope that it’s me.
what honda dealership do you work at?
i don’t think he learned everything from a chiltons manual, i believe it a haynes manual from autozone.
haha i dont care who gets beat up i just think its funny that the thread in true pittspeed fashion has turned into a pissing contest
we all know who knows their shit on this thread its obvious. the people that are trying to discredit those who know more than they do just make themselves look stupid.
but its entertaining me for now
which is good because i havent seen a good e- fight in awhile and its lookin like its getting to the point where it really gets pittspeed like and people start talkin shit on peoples mother/girl/car/sexual orientaion even if its not true
chris dont fix your car cause then the thread will die;)
at this point, im not even going to add my input :rolleyes:
lets just say its blown up
end of thread
you should give him some advice if you have it. i don’t say things about people i don’t know.
you’re a smart guy, for all we know you could solve all his problems.
haha… im jist being a dick to fuck wit people. from what i do know of steve knows his shit to an extent…
i hope this guy gets his car running correctly but its hard to say without seeing it and knowing every step done when the hg and tbelt was done…
again im not being a dick , im just havung some fun…
well its an aebs manifold which like was stated its a type r manifold basically and a 65mm t/b i have never heard that to cause such a rich condition
so either the timing is off or something related to that
or there is some sensors that arent where they are supposed to be
chris check that or have someone check that stuff out then if it still is running rich at least you can rule thoes 2 factors out
I hope that wasn’t directed at me. You know nothing about me or what I do/don’t know. I go well out of my way to help people, and if at all possible to get them thinking
ahhh that thinking thing is hard for lots of people on here to do :bigok:
screw you all…i do as i’m told
well since i did the work for him i’ll throw out my thoughts on the matter.
i can’t believe that everybody on here is a “super tech” and nobody has thrown out the fact that in adding the thicker gasket, the cam timing is completely out of synch with the crank. adding ignition timing (stated earlier) will do nothing to rectify it. the only way to correct it is with cam gears and degreeing the cams back to spec.
doing a compression test might be a good idea too. concidering this is the condition of the head gasket when it was given to me.
i really don’t think the mani and tb would be the problem. i could double check the tps for you, but i don’t think that’s your problem or could cause that bad of rich condition.
first things first do a compression test and leak down. if that’s wrong nothing you do to it will fix it. except replacing that bent up gasket. (put studs in this time please) IF that’s good my money is on the cam sync.
maybe MAP and TPS plugs switched?
why you gotta show that pic toby. lol
NOT ARGUING just asking, but ignition timing is set at 16 degrees base timing for the compression of a stock GSR motor. Wouldnt altering compression lower than stock leave room for more advance timing due to less cylinder pressure? Which in turn would make it run more efficient…correct, or no? Also how much thicker was this gasket you installed, why would you install a thicker gasket unless you plan on boosting and if you are boosting you wont be able to run large amounts of boost without blowing the head gasket…???
i am turboing it this weekend if i can get it running right. i am only goin to run ten pounds on a t3/t04e. its double the thickness of stock.
adding a thicker gasket and the intake mani and tb with not enough compression is the problem
if you didnt add a 5 layer gasket it would have been fine
hopefully we can get it all done and running good for you this weekend
The timing issue has been brought up several times. If you have a cam degree wheel, you can accomodate for the thicker gasket and be fine. The question will be was anything so far out of time that things made contact and damaged the internals. If you turn it over by hand can feel resistance, aside from normal compression (assuming your plugs are still in there)?
First, adding a thick hg wont change a thing. I’ve done a bunch and the motors start back up identical to how they were before. Hopefully it was installed correctly… out of curiosity, was it copper sprayed?
Is it running rich, or is it just running rough? There is a difference. Also, what ecu are you running? Chipped I assume? Do you know what circuits are turned off (if chipped) that may not bring a Check Engine Light up?
Hondas are rarely mystery machines. Most problems are straight forward when all precautionary checks come out positive…
So, check timing. crank it till the cam gear marks stand up, then line the crank up with TDC (not the firing marks). If its in time, check compression for the heck of it since you changed the hg, then report.
[QUOTE=gearhead;718946]First, adding a thick hg wont change a thing. I’ve done a bunch and the motors start back up identical to how they were before.
so your telling me that changing the cam profile (which is exactly what happens) will not affect a tune in anyway? that makes no sense at all. if your theory was true, you could slap any type of cam in a stock engine and it’ll run like it was designed without any tuning? BS. the cams are out of time and now fuel is dumping out of the exhaust. imagine that. chris double check the compression and do a leak down test. when that’s confirmerd good, pick up some cam gears. (and studs) or what i would have done n the first place, a stock gasket and studs. good luck buddy.