Hey guys,
I bought some plugs for my boosted GSR from the honda dealer and i forgot the part #. All i know is i say turbo plugs and they give me plugs. Partschick said so. Since then they have new faces and im sure they dont know what im talking about. Does anyone know what im talking about? I know there are a few here using them. Also if i remember corrctly the gap is like .2 to .25 right?
The teg was running “ok” last week. I believe i have a foul plug becuase when it starts up it sounds like a go kart. about 5 mins later it runs perfect. I went to start it tonite (last started a week ago) and it wont turn over.
Anyone have this problem with there boosted honda?
you can use the chart to figure out how cold of a plug you want. I’m running the 7’s ( 1 step colder then stock ) with a gap of around .28 on my ls/vtec turbo set up
yeah, I typically run the bcpr7es-11. I think Mike at innovative stocks them, and I’m pretty sure paul at swerve does too. Stock # at advanced auto is 1095.
nope. i think honda dealers sell blank plugs so that you can’t x-ref them to other models and have to only use honda brand.
IT will have a part number on it, but the real part number is hidden underneath. Once you pull the plug, locate the part number stamped on it, get some rubbing alcohol and some cheesecloth. (if you don’t have cheese cloth, boxer briefs work, but take 40% longer) rub the old HONDA fake part number off to get the real NGK number.
nope. i think honda dealers sell blank plugs so that you can’t x-ref them to other models and have to only use honda brand.
IT will have a part number on it, but the real part number is hidden underneath. Once you pull the plug, locate the part number stamped on it, get some rubbing alcohol and some cheesecloth. (if you don’t have cheese cloth, boxer briefs work, but take 40% longer) rub the old HONDA fake part number off to get the real NGK number.
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either that or buy the stock plugs and leave them in the freezer for two days until they are real cold - don’t forget to gap them properly
yeah. that’s another thing. Since it’s been so cold, the thermal expansion and contraction coefficients of the steel hook and copper electrode actually CLOSES the gap. You might just try what chino says with the plugs that are in there. It’s called TEMPERATURE GAPPING. Put the plugs in the freezer (2 days is unnecessary, 5 hours is PLENTY) THEN gap.
yeah. that’s another thing. Since it’s been so cold, the thermal expansion and contraction coefficients of the steel hook and copper electrode actually CLOSES the gap. You might just try what chino says with the plugs that are in there. It’s called TEMPERATURE GAPPING. Put the plugs in the freezer (2 days is unnecessary, 5 hours is PLENTY) THEN gap.
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This cleared up my slight miss with the legacy (re-gapping for winter)
I also think it helped with my gas mileage.
I left my plugs in the freezer overnight. ~12 hours
yeah, I typically run the bcpr7es-11. I think Mike at innovative stocks them, and I’m pretty sure paul at swerve does too. Stock # at advanced auto is 1095.
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Thanks man. Those would work. bcpr7es is even better since they start with a smaller gap so you don’t have to gap them down as much. I always have tons in stock.
lol sorry - had you going for a while there though.
why not use the graph 91crxsi posted and just replace them - its a cheap and easy fix, even if it doesn’t solve your problem it is a simple thing to rule out.
