Anyone know where I can get my LT-1 heads ported and polish and what it’d cost? Thanks.
Lloyd Elliot (he’s in Texas). I’ll pull the cost, details, and contact info for you. Great guy to work with, good price. He takes the time to talk with you to discuss your goals.
Advanced Induction is another place I talked to.
Jeff,
I will send you an email about the head and cam packages. There is usually a package that fits what you are trying to do or if you have questions, give me a call and I can help you pick the right set up to do what you want it to do.
The low ands mid lift flow #'s are MUCH more important than peak flow #'s. You usually have to decide where you want the head to REALLY flow well before you start. The valve job and port shape wuill dictate this. You must compromise one for the other. Here is an example of one port designed to flow well at low and mid lift and one that is designed to flow well at high lift only.
Lift-----A-----B
.100—66----64
.200–137—133
.300–198—185
.400–239—236
.450–251—251
.500–264—269
.550–266—274
.600–267—278
If you just compare the “peak” or .600 lift flow #'s, port B would “appear” to be better. With a .580 lift hydraulic roller, you must open/shut the valves at a certain rate that keeps the valve in the .150 to 450 lift range for most of the time. The valve is not above .500 lift very long at all before it has to shut and will see the .450 to .150 lift range again. Since the valve is in this area more often, the engine makes more HP and TQ with port A. There is a lot more to it than that and there are A LOT more ways to do the port that will make it flow better/worse at different lift points but this will help you understand why the low and mid lift #'s are MORE important.
I charge $100 (plus shipping) to port the intake manifold
Lloyd
Jeff,
I offer cam and head packager from $1100 to $1700 depending on driving style, emissions, RPM range, budget, etc.
LE1 cam pulls from 1900 to 6100 RPM and should make 370-390 RWHP with matching heads, 30 lb injectors, 52 TB, 1 3/4 LTs, No cats, good tuning, etc. The heads are ported using stock valves, performance valve job, back cut valves, CM 612 springs, retainers and locks, milling, cleaning and assembly. These heads flow about 255/180 with a 195 cc intake port and stock LT1’s flow about 215/150 with a 170 cc intake port.
Heads and cam are $1100 (plus shipping) and will pass emissions with good tuning. This has the RPM range of the Hot Cam or CC 305 cam but makes more HP and TQ through out the entire RPM range. This will work
with any gear and converter but the track times will be better with a stall and some gear.
LE2 cam pulls from 2200 to 6400 RPM and should make 400-420 RWHP with matching heads, 30-36 lb injectors, 52-58 mm TB, 1 3/4 LT’s, no cats, GOOD tuning, etc. The heads are ported and machined for larger Ferrea 2.00/1.56 valves, Comp 987 dbl springs, TITANIUM 10 degree retainers, locks, locators, milling, cleaning and assembly. These will flow about 270/190 with a 205 cc intake port.
Heads and cam are $1600 (plus shipping) and will need GOOD tuning. This has the RPM range of the CC 306 cam but will make more HP and TQ at peak and across the board. The REAL difference will be the LE2 cam will make TQ in the 2500 RPM range and the cc 306 doesn’t start until way past this. It will make more HP than the cc 306 at ALL RPM’s.
LE3 cam pulls from 2600 to 6800 RPM in a 350 (2300 to 6500 RPM in a 383) and should make 410 to 430 RWHP with matching heads, 36-42 lb injectors, 58 TB or mono blade, GOOD tuning, etc, etc, etc. These are the same heads from above but with Comp 977 springs instead of the 987’s. These are stronger and will also need Comp R lifters to handle the spring pressure.
Heads and cam are $1700 (plus shipping) and will need GOOD tuning. This cam is similar to the GM 847 cam but makes about 10 more HP at peak and starts making HP sooner. Makes more HP and TQ across the board. Needs gear and converter to work well in a 350. Pretty much a racing cam for the 350 or a good street cam that will act like the LE2 in a 383.
Everyone has a different opinion about what is streetable and what a safe RPM limit is for their engine.
I would suggest a DYNO TUNE to make sure everything is optimized but the 3 people mentioned in this e-mail have mail order tunes and are doing pretty well. They might get more with a DYNO TUNE though. A DYNO TUNE is pretty expensive and tough to find some one that can do it as well. This is why most get a mail order tune from MADWOLF or PCM FOR LESS. Both can be found on CamaroZ28.com.
Give me a call and I can help you pick a combo that you will be happy with.
Lloyd Elliott------------------------972-617-5671------------------------Red Oak Tx 75154
NightTrain66@msn.com
wow,that sounds good,i may have a set of heads u can send out so u dont have a lot of down time!
Some pics.
nice head work jeff!
I already have a Comp Cam 224/230 cam and in the process of buying all the goodies. I was just trying to get some info on getting the heads done to get max performance out of that cam.
The LE1 or LE2 heads would go good with that cam. Are you doing the whole valvetrain too? The list just grows when you start doing this - headers, throttle body, valvetrain, tune, etc, etc. Mmmm… parts.
Are you going with a bigger fuel pump? That’s about the only thing I didn’t do that I’m debating.
do a warblo pump.its ez,i can help if needed!
Yeah, we talked about that. Is there some way to tell at how much capacity a pump is working (other than running lean!)
I was ordering the LT4 timing chain, valve springs, retainers, rocker arms, and new pushrods. What else do you recommend?
I did (am doing) non-self aligning rocker arms with guideplates, which means you need hardened pushrods. Everyone says the Comp guideplates aren’t quite right for our car and to go with the GM’s. I also got the Comp “R” lifters, which I could have probably done without (they’re also a little more sensitive to correct preload).
I also went with 7/16" rocker arm studs, ARP head bolts, 30 lb injectors, 54mm throttle body, 1LE elbow (mine was ripped), LT4 knock module, Mr. Gasket head gaskets (0.026" compressed), and a 2800 stall.
I don’t know how much work you’ve done before (I hadn’t done much beyond exhaust, CAI, suspension, and other little things), but a GM shop manual is invaluable. So is marking and labeling everything. I have 164 pictures pasted and labeled in Word of every connection I took loose. Each part and picture label corrsesponds to the notes I took. You’re welcome to have a copy if you want it - I can burn a CD for you.
anyone got any info on them patriot heads
Do I have to get a computer retune or its the LT4 knock module enough?
u should,
x2
I went with PCMforless.com. There’s also MadZ28.com and Ed Wright. I bounght a cable so I can download my own from a laptop (and use it to data log).