i’ve got a large upright 80gal IR compressor on my short list for garage tools, but i’ll still shoot you a pic when i get it all removed
how many CFM at 80PSI? thats the key. You could have 10000 gal, but once that tank is empty, if you dont have the CFM to keep up with the blaster your pressure drops a ton and it doenst effectivly blast. Siphon setups use atleast 15cfm at 80PSI. or 18-20 at 100-110psi with a large nozzle to flow alot of sand. 80psi with med nozzle will blast paint off fine, light rust OK, heavy rust sucks, powercoat is just as bad as heavy rust, and it wont touch undercoating. Even at 110psi it starts to take heavy rust off, will cut through powercoat but its slow (1 inch aobut 1-2 minutes+), and will take 5 minutes to get 1 inch of undercoating off.
A pressure pot is about 4 times as effective as a siphon setup, but the CFM has to be there. The small nozzles for 13-15cfm will let the compressor keep up, but the blast radius is about the size of an pencil so you will be there forever. A med nozzle for 15-20 cfm will do about a 3/8" dia blast circle. 20-30 cfm nozzle will do about 1/2". I ran my pressure pot with the nozzle size my compressor could keep up with and got close to 1/2" dia shot out of it. Those rear trailing arms were mostly painted, some light rust and some heavy undercoating in spots. Took me 30+ mins a pop, and about 150lbs of media (i reclaim mine the best I can). I loose money blasting with my current compressor and pressure pot.
blasting sucks! 
Please are always asking where to get powder coat, i always recommend CRC is this is why. Excellent job powder coating the lower portion of my tein shocks. It’s hard to tell now, but the second one over from the right was not straight when i brought it in and they fixed that also
thanks bro! Glad ya like the color. Its so hard to get a decent match based off chip charts online and even other peoples work because cameras can hide so much.
Oh Mike I forgot to tell you that I took a slap shot directly to the cage you powder coated from an ex pro last week. Mangled the cage but the powder coat didn’t bat an eye. Even when I had to hammer one of the hoops back out 1/4" the powder coat was still fine
btw i just remembered i forgot to drop off the parts last night…i’ll get over there soon, i also might have a simple aluminum project for you, for my boat
Bike frame. Pics dont do it justice. Its a deep red candy with flake over a chrome base. Alot of movement in the color. Makes me want to coat a street bike in this so bad.
like this as in those are the wheels or as in another set with black centers and silver lips?
shit im sorry , mine are polished aluminum only and want the black done just like those with a little polished lip showing .
Polished aluminum bare or clear coated?
i dont know , i lip isnt that great in some spots but probably clear coated would be the best , less work to clean them .
sorry should have been more specific. Are they polished and clear’d now or just bare polished aluminum. Reason being if they are bare its a million times less work to blast than if they are clearcoated, and alot less work to repolish the lips. If they are clearcoated already I have to blast/strip them, and repolish the lips from the blasting.
Ballpark until I see the wheels $110 a wheel I assume would do it. I have to blast them 100%, repolish the lips, mask and shoot the black centers, then unmask and clear the entire wheel. So I am pricing it as a 2 color job, and taking in consideration the time/materials to polish the lips.
they are bare aluminum , i stripped the failing clear and did a minor polish job on them . But ball park is 110 . sounds good .
second question do you have or have you used almost chrome so i could just have the whole rim done like that and have it look pretty close ?
I have “chrome” powder. but here is the deal with it.
Just the chrome color cures out and look actually pretty damn chrome. BUT its not UV resistant, and will fade or tarnish over time and from cleaning, chemicals, etc. So it has to be cleared over. BUT X2, when it is cleared it turns greyish and looses the chrome look. A total bummer.
Since they are bare aluminum, I would just repolish the lips out perfectly. Then mask them off, blast the centers and everything else, shoot the black, demask and clear the entire wheel, polished lips and all. then you would have no re-polishing to do, just clean them.
Sick new color I came up with last night. Its the granny smith green dormant color as a base. Dormants are cool, they are shot and partially cured. When you pull them out, the color looks silver… nowhere near the final color. Once the clear is shot on top, and cured, it wicks the actual color and effect in the base through and into the clear. It makes a very candy looking color, but far easier to shoot. Candy colors are a transparant color over a chrome base. Problem with that is the more candy you have the darker it gets. So sharp edges, and spots where its hard to get the powder into are light, and the surfaces with it will flow out and pool up get dark. Its the hardest colors to powder coat. Dormants you cant screw up the shade. Coverage doesnt dictate the shade with dormants.
This color I added SEM’s “sun gold” and some “fire mist” flake into the clear. This is what the result is. Its WILD in the sun light.
This is the regular Granny Smith Green with straight clear:
This is an LS1 ProProducts intake with my flaked out Granny Smith Green.
With the flash on:
i like.
would make a nice custom bike color
Tell me that is going on Johawks car?!
Looks fricken sweet
thanks guys!
No its going on my camarobird! It will look awefull with the slomarro red color, but when its painted a sick black color it will look tits!