hey, i want install power locks on my 240sx…is it hard? i was reading around and people say it’s pretty simple…i looked on ebay for 2 door kits n such…there were two types i found…i think “2 wire” and “3 wire”? what is the difference? i plan to install an alarm system after(at a shop…just cheaper if i install the power door locks first…i think?..)
have the shop put in the alarm with keyless…
(only costs $20 more for the unit)
This will make the conversion
ULTRA SIMPLE!!!
just add your own switches after.
if he does all the work then it doesn’t cost much since he’ll be work in on yor car any way.
extra $150-200
well an extra $150-200 is alot for 'extra" lol which is why i wanted to install the power door locks myself before gettin an alarm system installed…since i know it’s mad easy to work on my doors, they both pop off, no screws or anything…but yea does anyone know the difference between 2-wire and 5 wire actuators?
im no electronics expert but im guessing 2 wire just reverses polarity and is off in the middle while a 5 wire would be 1 ground, maybe 1 up, one auto up, one down, one auto down, like baller style cars. this is just pure speculation though, ask patrick
ahh k thanks, and last part of my question:
how do the power door lock keyless kits work? it comes with 2 actuators and 2 remotes…does the remote send a signal to each actuator and it goes off? meaning, that when i install these power door lock kits, i DO NOT wire anything into the car’s electrical system except power and ground? IF so, how will this be compatible with an alarm system installed in the future?
if it is a seperate unit, then it might not work with an alarm system designed to use factory power locks. you would have to get creative with the wiring.
ah…that is what i feared haha cuz yea, i’ve read about people saying how easy it is to install power door locks with an aftermarket kit and not much wiring needed…which made me wonder how the actual kit works…and does it matter whether the door lock is a “rod type” or a “cable type”? the s13 is a rod type i believe? since it’s a metal rod that locks/unlocks? does that matter when it comes to buying the power door lock kit?
the other thing is…if i was to get an alarm system installed by a shop, what kind of power door locks do they install? since it doesnt come with the kit, cuz then i would rather buy the same type of door lock kit and install it myself so that id’b e cheaper to install an alarm system in the future…
oh man… you ask a lot of questions… just buy a complete alarm system/door lock kit that comes with door locks, remotes, trunk locks and all that shit, a universal kit. cable locks are mostly on german cars, pretty much everything else is rod type, so i would assume the universal kits would be made to work with the rod type lock.
lol yea, oh i didnt know some alarm systems came with door lock kits, thanks, i’ll see how things go.
2 wire is one pos, and one neg. Reverse the polarity to get the actuator to move in alternate directions.
5 wire can vary, but usually.
1 up, 1 down, ground, +12V (Not the same as Vcc)
The 5th pin can vary. In some systems it’s a feedback pin, some it’s a guide pin to prevent you from plugging it in the wrong way, some it’s an additional ground, and some it’s just a NC pin (No Connect). Most of the time it will be a feedback pin. Second it’s a ground. The auto down or up feature is usually aided by the 5th pin. In this case it’s a feedback pin but is usually controlled by an external module and not very much circuitary.
Two remotes will lock and unlock both actuators.
You can have feedback from your stock S13 system to provide to your aftermarket alarm and vice versa but it is not easy.
Lets just say I was 90% there with combining factory system with aftermarket alarm on Vlads S13 and then I ended up frying the Alarm system. Not one of my happier days, that’s for sure.
How So?.. i think i may have fried mine aswell, battery is dying, sum sort of drain…
what were the symptoms or how u know it was fried?
When I used the remotes I could hear the relays clicking inside of the main alarm box, but there was no supply voltage coming out of the lines for the actuator.
Actually, I believe unlocking would give me a 300mV signal and nothing for the other direction. I guess as a simple fix I could’ve used a Germanium Transistor driving a relay to provide power to the actuators, but I didn’t know the integrity of that 300mV signal. A regular silicon transistor requires 700mV and that didn’t have enough power to drive it.
Germanium transistors are high priced and hard to find. I could’ve used an amplifier to boost the 300mV signal, but then more parts, more money, more time, blah blah blah…
All fuses were fine and I did everything short of opening that Alarm box due to the warranty sticker still on it.
hmm my car is wierd, the alarm seems to be wrking, but when u disarm the car, get in close the door or change gears the door locks :S
i have to take a closer look into it
That’s a setting in your Alarm box. For most alarms you can change it with sequences that you input from that little red panic button. Just look in your manual to find out how to change it.
For me my Alarm came from Japan or Korea or something. I think they wrote the manual in their language and used a regular program like bablefish at altavista to convert. The English is horrible and hard to understand.
Only thing I could really take from it was the wiring diagram. To get around the auto locking, all I had to do was refrain from connecting the wire attaching to my parking brake. I’ve developed other means for alarming the car when it is in unauthorized movement.
O so its a feature? i thought my alarm was going haywire
its a compustar alarm… didnt do that when i first installed it
but ionon if its part of the alarm or something shorting out because i hear enuff relays clicking and my battery is dying, need to do a drain test and find out where its coming from