That’s the jetta u ass lol
Mike I haven’t read shit you posted but probably disagree with most if not all of it… And we need to get together maybe take the ladies to a nice eatary
Color sucks
Stop working on the molester van and put some time into this hooptie
I know thats why I am painting it soon! :rofl
C6 Z06 Atomic Orange we are thinking. :pop
Motor is on the stand, cleaned up and being worked on. Basics are new bearings, hone, rings, seals, gaskets, timing chain, slight port work on the oil pump (didnt shim for pressure, just cleaned up the casting and ported the brick wall of an outlet), lapping the valves if they dont hold water, and replacing the seals in there. (didnt look at the heads yet so i hope it doesnt go farther than that).
More or less for $730 so far, I have an freshend up stock LQ4. Not even changing the cam, only changes are the LS1 car intake and fueling.
BUMMER.
Bowman and I cleaned up the LQ4 pistons and were all ready to put the new rings, bearings, etc in the bottom end when I found a cracked piston.:banghead
I guess 200Kmi was about the end of its life.
So, sticking to budget, still have about $1400 left, its time to get some new parts if budget allows. Might say screw the budget, and go all out at this point too.
Clean, .005 over bore, hone, check/deck block: $433
Wiesco K398X05 -3.2cc (70cc heads = 10.0:1) includes pins and rings: $675
Now for the rods. Lots to choose from. Really depends on the deck height. the LS1 aluminum block has a 9.240 deck and the 6.0 truck block (I have) has 9.230 and if it needs to be decked even more if the machine shop finds it being out.
What I have to choose from are:
6.100 or 6.125 rods.
If the deck is fine on the block this is what I have:
6.100 rods put those pistons .017 UNDER the deck.
6.125 rods put those pistons .010 OVER the deck.
Dont be scare about the over deck, apparently the LS1 is over the deck stock. Boosted motors people say dont sink them under the deck more than .025. Wonder what everyone’s 2 cents are on that topic.
If the deck is fine as is, I think I am going to run the .125’s, if it has to be decked, I am running .100’s, putting it around .010 or so in the hole.
Rod choices:
6.100’s
SCAT I beam: 2-ICR6100-927-7/16 $345 with ARP 2000’s
6.125’s
SCAT I beam: 2-ICR6125-7/16 $345 with ARP 2000’s
So, to build the bottom end I am looking at:
Machine work: $433
Pistons, pins and rings: $675
Rods and bolts: $345
$1453 total.
John, Jon, Adam, Drew, and friends… what are your suggestions?
Since your boosting the motor you would want to go under deck seeing as if you go .010 over youll be increasing your compression unless you have a 70cc head or so with a thicker head gasket…idk much about boost applications but i thought compression is better if kept low…9.5:1ish?
And yes ls1’s can be anywhere from .00-.05 out of hole from factory
Yeah the 10.0:1 is those pistons at the 9.240 height, so the longer rod and my shorter block I would be above a 10.0 ratio.
Stock ratio is 9.4:1 for the LQ4 and 10.0:1 for the LQ9. The LM7 is a 9.5:1 stock. Some guys have 11:1 and run around 8psi pump or 15ish on e85 and are OK. Its all in the tune. the lower the CR the more boost you can run and the more lax the tune can be… usually.
They are 71cc heads also. so with the rated CR on the Wiesco site @ 9.240 height it would be a hair less than 10.0:1.
the next choice piston is the -11CC pistons at a 9.2:1 rated (actually a bit lower with my block) and even lower than that with the shorter rods. BUT in theory I could boost the balls off it. But thats loosing a bit of off boost tq and putting more strain on the heads/bolts/gasket.
I think the happy medium is the 10:1 or so, and about 20psi. Still “high” boost some say for these motors but enough compression still there to make good power.
71CC heads with a .051 headgasket and my block:
-3.2cc pistons & 6.100" rod (.017 under deck) is a 9.5:1 ratio
-3.2cc pistons & 6.125" rod (.010 over deck) is a 10.0:1 ratio
-11cc pistons & 6.100" rod (.021 under deck) is a 8.7:1 ratio
-11cc pistons & 6.125" rod (.006 over deck) is a 9.2:1 ratio
All calculated long hand and averaged up to the tenth for ratio.
Also I am running 1.8:1 rockers over the stock 1.7’s, on the stock cam so even if I went over, I dont think I have interference issues and these are valve relieved anyway, but how long until valves start hitting with big cams and what not on stock flat top pistons? Just wondering.
Cams is the 24X/24X, even some 238/24X with high lift…610 and up depending on how far out of the hole the stock piston is will usually demand a deep fly cut or piston with a -2cc or greater releif…but it all depends on the cc of the head and gasket thickness
gotcah. So even with the -3.2cc ones i am initially looking for with the shorty rods I am well within clearance for the valves, even if I get a bigger cam.
I would think ud be fine but when u do a cam ud probly wna spec it out with a company and let them kno your setup unless you know how to do the math on the size of the cam/lift with the piston/rod setup ur running. I kno Im not nearly smart enough to do that hahaha
Shits making my head hurt…
Why not find another piston for like 20 bucks or whatever
well look at it this way.
you wont break a crank, so your good there.
next up would need to be the bearings, and the connecting rod’s to handle that type of boost at a 10.1.1 compression. As long as you put a good set of rod’s, pistons and rings in the motor, you will handle 20psi + all day long with that compression ratio. 10.1 really isn’t that much compression to be really worried about with these motors.
+1. Why so much complication on a “budget build”?
I dont like doing things twice. Simple as that.
Because like every project as you dig into them more bugs creep out. Any good project should have a buffer for those bugs in the budget.
$4k was a off the cuff number. If it ends at 5 or 6 or anything less than 10 and runs like I want it to, it should hang along side cars 3+ times its “budget”.
Never the less I am still under the original budget, by $300 or so even with the bottom end parts.
+2… You can get a stock rotating assembly for like 300 bucks.
I have new bearings, if they dont work for the new rods, I sell them or keep them on the shelf for the next motor built at the shop.
Scat I beams, or for $150 more the H beams. :dunno
And since I am going to run the shorter rod, the 6.1" my compression will be in the mid 9’s so it will help a bunch too.
Find someone with LS2/LQ9 pistons on LS1tech, they are usually all over there for next to nothing. Compression is not your enemy, you will be running e85.