[quote=“fairgentleman Z,post:67,topic:34083"”]
There is A LOT of poor suggestions in this thread. If you want to build a road course car for under $10k;
1st. Seat-time. Budget enough money to go to events. How many times do you want to go in a year. Besides the NYSpeed days plan on putting aside ~$200-$300 per day (not including gas, food, fresh fluid change). 1 event per month is a good goal. Figure on six per year, $1200
2nd. Simplicity. Ignore everyone that said “swap” and “boost”. There are more than enough people that can’t get a car up and running as it is, much less for sustained periods of time. Free
3rd. Reliability. Putting money in the basics. This means wheel bearings, ball joints, brake lines, suspension bushings, reman brake calipers, fluids, over-sized radiator, belts, hoses, filters. All the nickle and diming adds up here you should allot ~$1000 of your budget, not including labor. Clutch could be considered now as well, again simple, nothing stage VIII.
4th. Safety. (what, isn’t safety 1st, stock equipment is o.k.) At a minimum get a seat and harness, not only for the safety but driver comfort (i.e. not sliding around). Besides this should give a tall person extra clearance between the roof and helmet. Ah yes helmet if you don’t have one… $400 (if you want a cage plan on $500+ for a bolt in, $1500 for an o.k. custom, $2500+ for a great one)
5th. Brakes. The biggest must do. Don’t buy into the big brakes kits, there are thousands of cars that road race each weekend on stock calipers and blank discs. Just buy real pads. Hawks are pretty darn popular, I like Carbotech myself. ~$100-$200 front set, Napas/OEMs for the rear. They should last 3 days so $200-$400 if you do #1.
6th. Suspension. The thing to do is a car that has been done before and again, copy and paste. Most likely Konis, GC sleeves and much higher than stock rates. Camber plates if you need that little extra to dial in the suspension. Don’t forget sways, and maybe some other bolt ons (strut tower, fender braces, c-pillar brace). Try to avoid the whole complete Heim joint suspension, although it has it’s benefits it would be to much adjustability and money for a novice. $1500~$2500
Sportlines springs and tokicos :lol: Maybe Illuminas and a conservative race spring to match (not blow them).
7th. Tires. I can’t say enough here, the most important mod. Buy the smallest wheels that can be reasonable run. Usually this means 15x7, some lighter cars 14x7 or 13X7 is even enough. Stick with the popular tire sizes, (i.e. the cheaper tire sizes). Buy tires used:
http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20656&highlight=motherload
, this means the top guys get rid of the tires after the lose their competitiveness, but the tire isn’t “bad”, just not winning. Great for beginners and track days, I am in no mood to get into the science behind it just that stiffer than street tire side wall = more gooder. $500~$1000 if buying new. Probably want wheels too… $400
8th. Performance. (notice how this one is last) Header, header back exhaust, pulleys for some cars, WAI. Again keep it simple. Do you want to spend your time “tunning” or driving? ~$1000
Total ~$6200-$7900
What is left, buy a car with. Oh yeah don’t forget the engine swap, turbo kit…
This still doesn’t include the simple stuff that could go wrong (alternator, getting a fresh battery, p.s. pump, engine controls/sensors, master cylinder, random gremlins)
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An M3 E30 over a 325? A quick scan of ebay shows there is a $6k-$10k premium vs. a 325, for 22hp/6tq (stock) I would hope the gains can be made up with a H/I/E and a cam for much less (obviously it won’t be as free revving). Suspension wise who cars, it is all going to be replaced.
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:tup: that is what i am looking for. Thank you
question regarding going to offical track days and etc… What if you dont have the most perfect license or a license at all??
it might be completely different in LA. but just curious to know