You are going crazy smoothing pans and covers so now you have to put a sexy paint job on it.
Chevy Orange??
You are going crazy smoothing pans and covers so now you have to put a sexy paint job on it.
Chevy Orange??
Block is going to be painted Flame Red to match the car; the pan, covers, and brackets are most likely going to be Black Chrome Powdercoat, heads are staying raw.
Might I suggest a cheap detail gun from Harbor Freight and POR15 engine enamel.
http://www.por15.com/ENGINE-ENAMEL/productinfo/EEPA/
This is by far the best engine paint I have ever used. The spray cans can’t even come close.
I’ve already got some Devilbiss Finishline 4 HVLP guns ready to order. But thx for the suggestion on the paint, that was one thing I wasn’t sure what to use. Although with POR 15, I might want a cheap gun and not a good one. Hmmm…
You will want to spray the POR-15 with your good gun. You’ll be fine. Cheap guns spray like crap and the POR won’t hurt your good gun…so long as you clean it and not just run reducer through the orifice. Your brushes will turn permanently Black but it won’t prevent you from cleaning your guns in the future.
Nice progress :tup:
How does the Eastwood Ceramic Engine paints compare to the Por15 stuff? Any idea?
Most of the products eastwoodco.com carry are top notch and I have always been have with everything from there. I just know the POR15 engine paint is much better than the Ceramic duplicolor cans sold at the parts stores. Get the eastwood pain and let me know.
If I could recommend this more than 100% I would: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-ceramic-engine-paint-qt-universal-gloss-blac.html
Make sure to use PRE to clean and the Urethane Activator when spraying. You can also brush apply this and it will come out really nice as well.
EPIC use of jeans to block the HVAC opening :lol:
PRE clean?
I’m pulling the cam bearings and scrubbing the fuck out of the block, prob this weekend. Have all the flash gone, edges broke, and all but 5 rear cover holes thread chased (engine stand is in the way). Planning on a hose, a bottle of dish soap, and the Moroso Engine Brush kit I just ordered, combined with whatever other brushes I need/have to get in the corners. Then blow it dry with the compressor, and wd40 the cylinders (with a rag).
Another note: Chasing threads sucks… not that it’s tough, it just takes forever… I think I have like 2 hours into chasing the threads on the block.
Yeah, I like this stuff:
Ah, ok. I’ll order a can of that when I order the paint.
Ok, Moroso Engine Brushes arrived, So did the Valve Spring Compressor, and the Valve Organizer Tray. Cam Bearing Tool is ordered and should arrive tomorrow.
More tools/supplies on order… Engine Paint, Glyptal paint (Internal Engine paint), Paint Activator, PRE Clean, and a new Digital Torque/Angle wrench on order from Eastwood; and 2 Non-Ferrous 6" Burrs on order as well (For P&P the heads).
Planning on chasing the last 6 holes on the block this weekend, finishing up any de-buring, and any remaining casting flash, then cleaning the fuck out of it. Then Disassembling and starting to clean the heads and get those ready for some P&P work.
Once the paint supplies come in from Eastwood, then it’s time to paint the block. I’m just going to brush it, as all the information I’ve found on the Eastwood Ceramic Engine paints, says the brush application works excellent. (Plus I’m not setup to spray yet, and I don’t really want to drop the $600 in costs for that… regulators, guns, dryers, misc supplies, etc; Yes, $600 is steep, and I’m sure I could get it cheaper… but I’m not one who buys cheap tools; plus this is the project to get my tools so I’ll always have them for future build that I have planned to do).
You’ll be fine with brushing. Make sure you use a good quality brush and you should be good. Do 2-3 light coats and dab all the crevices.
P&P work started on the heads last night… a carbide Ferrous burr works surprisingly well on aluminum… although I have to keep it lubed up so it doesn’t clog, but so far so good. I have the proper burrs on order, I just wanted to see how it was going to go with the ones I had. Spent about 30-45 mins out there last night and got the rocker bolt bosses roughed in on 1 head, and 95% done on 2/4 cylinders. Long ways to go, but progress is a lot easier than I thought it was going to be.
Should make some more progress tonight; and tomorrow is Block Cleaning day… supposed to be 80s, so a good day to hose everything down and not freeze to death.
Didn’t you have duals that dumped before the rear wheels?
Used to. Now the plan is TSP Long-Tubes, TSP Y-Pipe, and a Loudmouth II cat-back.
Engine washing delayed… Found a LS6 valley cover with the new PCV style system for cheap; but I have to cut/grind more on the block to get it to fit and I won’t have it till Thursday, so… I removed the cam bearings and now the block is ready except the valley pan mods.
Have the speed bumps roughed out on one head, started gasket matching the exhaust ports as well, have 2 of those started before kiddo woke up for dinner. One has to have priorities!
Ok… Just a note to anyone porting a set of heads or thinking about it… I just spent the last hour digging metal slivers out of the webbing between my index and middle finger… Feeling down the ports for ledges I must have had a few shavings in just the right spot to imbed. Didn’t find them till this am when my hand swelled like a balloon in that spot. Fuck this hurts!!!