If I am anticipating a full stop, I will just throw it in neutral and brake down.
If I am just slowing down for an exit ramp/turn though, I will heel-toe it when I need a lower gear. It’s good practice and becomes second nature if you get used to it. If I don’t need a lower gear, just apply brake and keep it in gear.
I always do this. Then my non car passengers ask me if I’m trying to race someone by revving at them lol ><
Maybe some systems would, but it’s not necessary. At idle, you need the engine to maintain rpm, with combustion, hence the injectors. On engine braking, your rpm is maintained or reduced by the gearing and vehicle speed, so you do not need any combustion.
STOP U R ALL THE WINNAR
yeah, I understand that, I would think there is a small amount of combustion still occurring though.
It’s why wideband on decel goes up to 18:1 afr and higher, and then pegs the gauge lean.
In fact, I can think of one time you would not want to engine brake (and maybe the only time you would not). That is during tuning a car, with some sort of log program. If you’re doing this, and you engine brake, the afr will spike lean, so the datalog will tell you that you need to add fuel there, which is not correct. That is the only case I can think where I would avoid it 
Yea, but you’d be able to see the TPS @ 0, and the other variables to tell you otherwise…
Of course, but many tuning softwares use autotune features where you log, type in the VE targets, and it gives you educated guesses of what you want to tune. You still do tuning at 1% tps and up, so you often don’t have that luxury.
Not saying there aren’t ways to tune like that, just saying that that is one instance where I could think of not engine braking, and probably the only case I think think of that!
yes but the engine pulls zero vaccuum unlike gasoline engines that get some of their engine braking ability from sucking all the air from the intake manifold under a partial vaccuum(closed throttle). Using somthing like a jake brake or retarder kill combustion in some or all of the cylinders to use the diesel engines high compression to slow the vehicle down. Much safer than using just service brakes and it wont hurt it
this is a really stupid thread…
Hass, if you ever miss a gear, put it in the gear higher than you were going to shift into so that the car doesn’t jerk (unless you missed 6th lol)
I don’t believe the injectors stop completely, but I think this varies from application to application.
One of the simple examples of how engine braking can raise your RPMs without comsuming fuel is:
Ignition off.
Put it in 1st gear.
Push down hill.
Then engine will rev, but obviously no fuel is being consumed. At the same time though… if the car was on and you did the same thing, I believe that fuel will still be burnt (I don’t know why I feel that way), though I’m not positive.
You’ll burn more fuel rev-matching than engine braking. You have to blip the throttle with the gas pedal to raise the RPMs before you can downshift anyway.
a lot of logging progs will let u filter out decel values, or only log certain columns on up.
as for the rest of this thread, lol
So only one person said something to this I believe…
Is this really bad? Or no?
Because I’m used to taking turns like some old man trying not to spill his cup of full prune juice and stain his $70k car that he just bought 2 days ago.
Then in this, if I try a second gear turn it has to be ~25 mph.
I’m used to… around 5-10mph, lol. 
Can’t get below 10mph in first, or 20 in second.
Or else the car falls apart.
and that’s bad.
So sometimes I downshift in to first to make a turn, but I just coast down and brake until I get to about 15mph, then downshift and try to rev match the best I can… and make the turn, then speed up as normal.
Sometimes I’ll make turns in second, but only if it’s on a bigish road. (not the tiny suburban roads by my house)
Oh and yes, I stopped reading for a few days, and then disregarded the majority of the posts that people made when I finally did read it today… because one person makes a comment, then the next person disagrees with the above person… then the next person disagrees with the above… and so on… x7 pages.
IDK, cars are different
in my fbod i think 1st gear would top out at like 45mph lol (auto), in my integra, 1st gear tops out at like 23mph
im pretty sure your car won’t “let you” downshift into first if you’re going too fast. You really have to jam it in there hard with full force in order for it to go in (No homo)
it’s not like your car will “blow up”
In my ws6 its a 6spd, 1st goes to 50mph, but whenever I turn I only downshift into 2nd. 1st if I’m going like 10mph
if you’re going to downshift into 1st, this is the one time I would recommend a double clutch.
If you don’t expect to put 1,000,000 miles on your transmission… just drive the thing.
Wow…the engine braking discussion is just plain retarded… Obviously, anybody here who has said “engine braking is bad for the engine and/or transmission” or any derivative thereof has never a)driven a loaded truck b)towed a trailer. I had an oooold F-250 with a straight 6 and a 4 speed. I put damn near 200,000 miles on the truck doing A LOT of hauling/towing. I ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS downshifted the truck to help maintain safe speeds on downslopes and to help prevent brake fade. I would do the same approaching signals and stopsigns. I put one clutch in the truck at 160,000 miles. It even stated right in the owners manual that you should select the same gear descending a hill as you would ascending the same hill for purposes of engine braking and reducing brake heat/wear. Think about that for a minute. I doubt the engineers at Ford would tell you to do something that would hurt the truck. The truck is still running…I still see it around.
I now drive a Cummins and do the same thing…actually I have no choice in the matter. The truck weighs over 9000 lbs empty, so when it’s fully loaded and I’m dragging the trailer the brakes on the truck are at their design limit so engine braking becomes 100% vital to the safe stopping of the truck. 208,000 miles on the clock an no problems. In reality I really should get an exhaust brake which will actually INCREASE THE CYLINDER PRESSURE hence giving more braking power with NO ILL EFFECTS. Jake brakes and retarders do the same thing…they do not “kill combustion” they increase the cylinder pressure to provide increased dynamic braking. As far as I’m concerned engine braking is a tried and true method of slowing the vehicle down. I’ve put on hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles and haven’t broken anything yet.
Actually I just had an afterthought… I raced circle track for 6 years. What happens in every circle track racecar at the end of the straightaway? You lift your foot off the gas and let the engine slow you down…yes, you use the brakes too, but you certainly don’t push the clutch in, then let it out when you want to accelerate again. My engine (355 Chevy) ran all 6 seasons I raced WITHOUT A REBUILD (I was on a tight budget) and actually won the last race I ran with it. Apparently using engine braking for those couple thousand laps didn’t hurt it.