I am in somewhat of a dilema with my volk wheels. Some of you who I talked on MSN probablly have already talked to me about it and the only
reason I am asking here (and probablly elsewhere) is because I don’t want to buy the wrong parts or waste time doing so. I would want to do it
right since I do have to spend $100-$200 just to have this done. I have some pictures and text to explain what is going on.
First of all, this is the picture of the back of the Volk wheel with the spacer on top. As you can see, the spacer has 8 holes; 4 holes mate to
the stock hub and the other 4 holes mate to the studs coming out of the spacer. You can also see the spacer-stud’s end is a notched circle.
Next we see the spacer placed on top of the stock hub along with the little bolts that come on the spacer. The Volk wheels require these spacers
because the stock hub studs on the 240 doesn’t match up with the holes on the Volk wheel. You can also see that once the spacer is on, the stud
from the spacer has about 16mm of threading. You can’t really see but the studs on the spacer are 12 x 1.5 and not 12 x 1.25, since
I did try to fit one of the OEM lugs on the spacer-stud and it didn’t fit (as well when you see it up close, you can see the threading is a little
spread out on the spacer-stud).
Finally we have the spacer + spacer-studs + volk wheel mounted on the hub. What you can’t see are the studs from the stock hub which are
behind the wheel.
Having talked to Don at PDM and a few other people, I think I know what kind of lugs I will need but my question is, since there is about 16mm of threading available on the wheel, is that enough? Here’s a picture of the kind of lug I would need:
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You can see the above lug is different from the kind of lugs most of you have seen as shown in the followiong picture:
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The only way for me to get extended studs is to replace the studs on the spacer (and not on the hub) and I wouldn’t know where to get
those kind of studs (looks like a bolt with a notched circle head).
the mounting face of the wheel has gaps in it so the other 4 studs wont be a problem i guess… my terminology here is not quite up to par i am sure.
hey G. i guess that is what they are for then eh? lol…
you wont need spacers out back, and that is for sure. those wheels are only 3mm off on my wheels specs and i didnt use a spacer out back nor did i need one.
Well, like I wrote earlier, these wheels are technically 4 x 100. The only way to get them on a 240sx is to use the provided spacer which act as
a converter from 4 x 100 to a 4 x 114.3
A little disappointing but it’s something I overlooked when I saw the wheels. I bought the wheels in Dec. and didn’t get a chance to test fit
them. What’s weird is all the wheels have the original factory stickers on the back with info about the wheel, including the bolt pattern which is
written as PCD 114.3, so seeing that I assumed it was so.
All in all, it’s not a big deal, because one way or another these wheels will go on using the spacer/converter. I am a little worried about the kind of
stress this will put on my hub and spindle but hopefully it’s nothing too serious to be scared of.
Freak: Yes, I will make sure to torque them at every event/track and make sure to routinely check them. :bigok:
Spite: those studs from the spacer sit flushed with the spacer because of the notched circle. I have more pictures on my website (see sig below)
If you want to see what I mean.
Benson240sx: I just had too much time on my hands, and I don’t think everyone has a digi-cam at their disposal or have Photoshop (or know
how to use PaintBrush) to draw arrows and text on their pictures. :lol:
How much full turns by hand can you do before the lugnuts seat on the wheel? 6-8 turns would be absolute minimum by any standards, anything less would require extended studs.
ARP makes extended wheels studs. If you have access to an arbor press, just press the old ones out and check for the appropriate bore size.
Go with a set of open end lugnuts so they don’t bottom out on the hat.
Since the wheel isn’t hubcentric, there’s extra load on the wheel bearings, hub and spindle assembly. Usually, the wheelbearings give way first.
My recommendation would be to visit a machine shop, and have them drill 4 new holes with a 4x114.3 pattern.
Also measure up the hub bore, and wheel bore. Go to your friendly wheel shop, and get a set of hubcentric rings. Aluminum would be great, but even plastic is fine.
I won’t find out until I get the lug-nuts. They didn’t have 12 x 1.5 in stock
so I had to have them ordered. The mechanic there told me the length
is ok and I shouldn’t have problems.
Taking a guess, I would probablly have somewhere around 8 or so turns
on the lugs that hold the wheel in place.
I have looked up ‘wheel adapter’ on the web and they aren’t dangerous or
anything. They’re commonly made for jeeps and trucks. They can be
used as spacers or bolt-pattern converters. So I should be ok (I hope).
The lugs should come in on Friday I think so I will find out then about
how many turns will seat them and such.
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