Well as some of you might know im going CA18DET and I was wondering if a KA24DE clutch would bolt up to the CA???
Sorry if its a noob question but i have to know before i even think of rebuilding a KA clutch and then tryna put it on the CA and nothing fits, so if anyone can answer me please do…
i doubt it, but maybe an RB20 clutch would work? i remember someone saying once that the CA is an RB with 2 cylinders lopped off. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_CA_engine
^^^ I agree. And to keep it more local, the Clutch from a N/A VG30DE in a 300ZX(Z32) will work on an RB, which means it will probably work on a CA.
aiight thanks guys so guess i wont waste money to rebuild a clutch… terry i also heard the CA is a mini RB so yeah cant wait. Cant do anything until i pay off my debts and get my money back from like the millions of ppl who owe me…
how much power do u plan on making? bulding your SR would be cheaper then starting all over with a CA, but then again, you would get some good money for ur SR motorset and the CA is sooo cheap, the head wont flow much more then 300hp though, and i believe the internals are weaker than an SR, I’m not sure, thats just what i read somewhere.
wow, sounds like a huge project, honestly, BC stroker kit and chassis swap would cost so much… its not even worth doing. if i had the option again i definatly would not do another motor build up, im a perfectionist and it is going way over budget and schedule. as for the CA… from what i heard, the rods are the problem. and its hard to top 300hp because the head design just wont flow it.
as for the head gasket, i dont think it would be hard to remove the head on a RWD SR. the timing cover is right there at the front and everything, i figure it would be pretty simple unless it is held somehow at the back by the tranny. u could prolly just pull the head off with the intake manifold and everything. i think this would be your best bet:
pull the head, replace the gasket with a regular cometic, no thick low compression shit. throw on some ARP head studs. do brian crower stage 2’s or 3’s with springs and retainers, the cams and S/R’s are rediculously cheap, cheaper then JWT S4’s by themself! from what i heard, the stage 3 cams are like a 45hp increase on a stock SR20DET with FMIC. and the springs are supposedly some of the stiffest on the market, i just ordered a set today.
so now that your head is sorted, go with nice brand new garret GT28RS Disco Potato. it is supposed to be good to about 340hp, but the best part is the fast spool. in sport compact car they bolted it onto their project silvia with shorter FMIC piping and if i remember right, they got 15psi on the SR at like 2200RPM. it is a good turbo, it puts a lot of area under the powerband rather than just peak numbers.
the bottom end is good in the SR, if there’s nothing wrong, then leave it.
I think you’d be really happy with that setup and it makes the most sense seeing as you already have the motor in the car
regarding the turbo, read this:http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/projectcars/0306scc_project_nissan_silvia_part_2/index.html
regarding the stroker kit, read this: http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=161678&highlight=brian+crower+stroker
andreas miko explains how you can build ur own stroker kit for cheaper with a tomei crank, eagle rods(i think), and CP pistons.
you know, you’d probably be better off doing a KA-T build. long stroke, 2.4 litres of displacement, iron block, its a solid motor. there are plenty of companies stocking forged pistons for them too, so it would be cheaper then a custom set. u can buy forged H-beam rods as well. if ur thinking of a stroker SR, the KA would prolly be a better choice. u could always go the other way as well tho… SR with SR16VE crank, 92mm bore, 1.9L, 10 000 RPM redline. im not sure if the FWD SR16 crank would fit a RWD SR tho… that would be a crazy turbo car.
i hope by stock bore you mean 1st size overbore, i made the mistake of ordering stock bore 86mm forged pistons and now i cant run the reduced cylinder wall clearance that i wanted to run…
as for a high RPM screamer, it wouldnt make for the best street motor. especially if u stayed close to stock bore and ended up with an SR16DET. the boost might be a little slow to respond. you cant really compare it to a GA16 turbo cuz the GA has a longer stroke than bore. where as an SR16 has bigger bore then it does stroke. longer stroke is better for turbocharging, more turbulance in the combustion chamber, thatz why the KA responds so well to turbos.
it really sounds like KA-T is what you need. KA-T + GT28RS = nuts car with no lag.
just sell your car intact and buy a stock 240 and start from there. or you could build up the ka and swap it into your current s13. lol, it would make you the first person in history to ever swap an SR out to put a KA in, haha
then spend all the money you saved on a taller final drive.
Terry dont always believe what you read… the CA can hold much more than 300hp no doubt and i will attempt to prove that wrong but not anytime soon… CA is by far a stronger block so why couldnt it hold more hp? eather or people go SR because they’re cheap and parts are easier to find, but no one wants a CA thus they are dirty cheap and nice to play with 
no doubt the block is stronger, and im not going to argue about the internals because truthfully i dont know for sure, but 300hp is a lot to ask from any 4 cylinder with stock internals, KA, SR, CA, or otherwise, and as far as the head goes, there is a general concensus that it is hard to flow over 300hp without considerable port work due to a constrictive head design, but again, i have never been inside a CA.
either way, 300hp is quite healthy and a big leap from the 155 crank hp of ur current KA, that combined with the weight savings should make the car plenty fast for you.
well i agree with you… 1.8 litre will need to be bored to a 2.0 but it isnt much and a change of internals would be the smart choice. i see where you’re coming from though. i wasnt going to try drag 300+ hp with stock internals, i woudl be sick in my head lol…
yeah true enough guys… i hear and see what you mean. the CA is gunna be pimp though but there will always be problems with whatever engine i get lol i can feel it… :C
Not difficult to run 300HP on a CA with stock internals.
Main reason you don’t see big number CAs is because there wasn’t much aftermarket available for it here. Even the CAs in the USDM 200SX and NX didn’t have much support. Most of the parts can’t work anyway because the USDM engines were mainly SOHC.
For the DOHC counterpart, the heads had a restrictive flow pattern (most people said it already) and the valvetrain was considered weak past a certain HP point. Biggest issue is the lack of available of performance parts.
A stronger 4cyliinder block to consider might be the FJ. That engine had miles of strength over a CA.
FJ? enlighten me popcorn…
Wow the FJ… Amazing Engine
- Lighter than the KA24DE
- More power and buildup potential in stock form than the CA18DET
- Lower production to nail rarity and originality
- Engine in the fastest 4Cyl car in Austrailia
Can’t miss the FJ. There’s a guy in Toronto that has an imported S110 (1980 Nissan Silvia) with an FJ in it and I believe theres a guy on this board with an FJ swapped into his S110 but I can’t really remember for sure.
The engine was primarily built for racing in Nissans pioneer Rally car the 240RS (S110). Engine came with almost 240HP as a 4cyl NA Carbeurated with 2.4l, but mainly as a Turbocharged, Fuel injected 2.0L engine.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_FJ_engine
Did I mention my Datsun 200SX is an S110?
an FJ would be really sweet… but it would likely cost a lot to build. hey pat, how come on wikipedia there is no mention of an FJ20DET when there is clearly a twin cam FJ in the picture? it just says FJ20ET…
I helped my friend pull his KA out of his 240 yesterday and get the SR ready. I’m starting to crave S13 again…
BTW, for anyone interested, DJPyro especially (if you’re still thinking about a KA build up that is) I have an S13 KA24DE in the back of my van with transmission. its stock, 175K, some valve train noise. it’s pretty much free… pay me for gas if i have to deliver it. im not sure how long i will keep it for before it goes to the scrap yard. if there’s any interest, i might even bring it to the next meet with tools and I’ll part it out right on the spot. someone let me know though if you’re interested.
I was actually wondering about that when I was posting this. I even double checked the picture to make sure it was DOHC at the time.
When I really think about it, the FJ was introduced when there were no other DOHC motors on the Nissan lineup. The FJ was the first high production number motor to use that technology.
They probably didn’t fall into that nomenclature until they released the RB with DOHC.
Actually, there was the S30 (Inline 6 DOHC, 3.0L of the 70s) motor and the less known GR8 (Inline 6 DOHC of the 60s) motor before the FJ. The GR didn’t follow any standard nomenclature at all.
I guess they just kind of decided how to classify what it was in the mid 80s with the DOHC RB motor.
so all FJ’s are DOHC?
yes, no exception. They only produced DOHC heads for it and the heads from other motors cannot bolt on.
Interesting info BTW, everyone says a CA is an RB with two cylinders cut off, but actually, the RB was derived from the CA. And the VG was derived from the CA as well.