who makes add on systems for cars ? i dont care WHAT car they are for, i just want to see some different set ups
what is the required squirter hole diameter ?
where exactly do they aim on the piston ?
is there any benifit to doing dual squirters per piston ?
what size supply line to use ?
the focus SVT has them stock, they have passages in the block from the factory…cosworth makes a carbon impregnated block, that has the passages, and if you use them you have to get teh squirters separate or plug them if not. so i dunno if you can “add on”
well the engine in question is a V8 thats getting turbocharged, and because its a v block, theres less room to mount the squirters
its looking like ill have to fab some rails that bolt to the inside of the oil pan on either side, with squirter tubes that peak way up past a windage tray and oil scraper
i know alot of cars come with factory squirters, but i havent seen one yet that would work at all, let alone work well. most of the factory units would have to mount in the way of the crank in order to properly spray the pistons
just zip tie some silicone tubing to the connecting rods.
what kind of v8?
honda has them stock haha
oh man. good luck figuring something out. i don’t know how you would go about something like this besides casting/machining a custom block, or just using a different v8 that has stock oil squirters. keep in mind that they’re not at all necessary if you’re using forged internals. they’re mainly used to control cast piston temps to reduce hot spots. also, good wrist pins are designed to work well with minimal oil lubrication. if you’re trying to cut down temps to run more timing, there’s better and cheaper ways of doing it. water injection, air/water intercoolers, more efficient cooling system, etc.
it just seems like if you did go through with this, you’d end up spending a lot of time and money for minimal results.what’s your ultimate goal with using an oil squirting setup?
we plan on pushing a stock long block to almost double the boost level that normally destroys stock pistons, and we have no intention of installing forged pistons until the stock pistons disintegrate
with the engine in question, the gasket set is actualy more expensive then forged pistons, so if i can do what i want w/ stockers, il be a happy man
i think i have the setup figured out, now i just need to know how im gonna make the squirters themselves. probably get ahold of some factory squirters and measure the orifice, then fab some squirters to mount to an aluminium distribution block
edit: and the car will have water injection and FMIC squirters, both run out of an ice chest in the trunk, so intake temps will be quite low as it is…
You could use 1/8" or 3/16" stainless or mild steel tubing. That is roughly the size of most OEM units however the ends are capped and drilled smaller. I guess it would depend on the volume of oil you want to deliver. You could get some stainless 3/16" tube and TIG weld on end shut then use the drill press to drill an orfice hole in the welder over tube. I would suggest testing anything you make with oil or something of the same viscosity at operating temperature and at the same pressure it will operate at. However it does seem like a good amount of work to use factory pistons
Hey, That’s actually one of my jobs at work.Put in 3 piston squirters and run them down.
D
im gonna lathe up some parts, hammer some stuff together, drill some holes, run some line, and test the output of the system with 220* engine oil pumped @20, 40 and 60psi using an electric oil pump
ill also test the flow of my parts compared to some of the OEM squirters out there, just like you would flow match injectors on the bench
now if only i could test how much heat they suck away from the piston in a running engine …
I really dont understand why you are going this route. That engine will not live on double the power… squirters or not. If its a newer N/A motor then the upper rings will probably be relatively high on the piston for emission purposes. You boost it, the first thing that will break is the upper ring land… then you toss a rod and all the work is in the toilet.
I’d like to know what motor this is since i find it hard to believe that head gaskets are going to cost you $500+
Why do all this and have it blow anyway? seems pointless to me
water injection is fine for a race car but if you are depending on it to survive on the street then that is not a reliable setup. You lose the water and you lose the motor…
I’d rather have full oil pressure than have the added piston cooling of oil squirters even if they were easy to add, which they’re not. If you’re running water injection you can make it run cooler than when NA if you want to so why would you bother with oil squirters???
There are tons of failsafes out there, plus I’ve never seen a water injection setup fail. Some older kits had issues running 100% methanol, but that’s been resolved as well. I don’t use any warnings or failsafes on my own car because I’m totally confident in the meth kit. The meth pumps I sell are as reliable as a fuel pump…
What V8 is this? Gen III, like a -2 or -6? SHO V8? Toyota? I’m wondering what is so offbeat the gaskets are as much as eight forged slugs…
I agree with this statement. Kiss the ringlands good bye. While piston squirters will help quench some of the build up heat in the head of the piston it will not make or break the part when doubling the HP. A good forged piston designed for the application should be used.
I like when people do crazy stuff like this…its one of the best ways to learn stuff. No offense but, its not our time or money, let him have at it and we can all learn. Maybe even be influenced.
I guess so, but if someone can’t keep their tank full they shouldn’t be operating a motor vehicle. 
X2