This is a welded OPEN diff. I think / hope this might just be a broken weld inside the carrier.
The noise happens every time i shift gears, the constant rattle is the license plate on the floor pan of the car.
if you skip to 2:14 i get on it and then depress the clutch fully and wait a second or two before re-engaging it. You can hear what ever is inside it go crazy.
old motor sounded way better. boo on the flat tappet. should have used a hydraulic roller like was in there before. oh well everyone builds their shit their own way.
john never had any problems with cops, they respected him.
Okay so from now on We’re going to call the blown engine “johns block” and the one i rebuilt “my block” to keep the ass fuckery confusion to a minimum.
Time to pull the other motor out of the Z, for 2 reasons now.
i’m a retard and didn’t use the long slot rockers that were installed in the heads, i backed off at the last minute and used stock GM ones.
The rockers were bottoming out on the studs causing cam damage cylinders 1,2,3,4 exhaust lobes are now ground to the base circle… oops.
THE REASON WHY I USE ISKY:
I called Ron iskenderian and explained what happened, he told me it was a common mistake and happens sometimes. He will gladly regrind my old camshaft for me and send it out WITH proper rocker arms. free of charge
I (was) planning to build a 383 stroker motor out of johns block, until i saw this… Looks like my block is going to be the stroker donor now.
Gotta say, i did a pretty good job for my first blown engine.
usually slow cranking/hard starting is way too much timing or having the valves/valve timing not set right.
also i have a set of rods here that are good if you decide not to go stroker.
im still trying to figure out how the bottom end would blow apart like that from a cam going bad. looks to me like beating on it doing heaters with everything not set “right” is what caused it to come apart.
Took it apart enough to get to the camshaft. decided to buy a brand new timing set and a few other things, put a bigger cam in it with lifters, and new rockers from isky.
Get the entire motor back together, ready to fire it and break it in… but the fucking distributor won’t seat. After messing with it for 2hrs on and off i decide to attach the battery and give it a bump.
MISTAKE LOL
Somewhere i hit something in the igniton department… blew a couple fusible links.
Needless to say, im mad. Real mad. I had to walk away from it, maybe tomorrow things will go better.
Getting ready to pull the block out again sometime this week, and off to O&L it goes.
385 stroker, should be about 10.6:1 CR when done, unfortunately between nitrous oxide, the pure torque this thing will be putting out, and the fact that automagics are king down the 1/4 mile i cannot keep the T-56, i fear i might break it. Its up for sale in the classifieds.
I’m currently looking for a th400 or a 700R4
In other news, SEATS! Traded the stock ones to slackJ for these, driver side trans tunnel had to be massaged in and a small braket moving the seat 1/2 inch needs to be made, but they fit pretty well.
^ This is true but my DD is also a 6 speed and I sort of want tto change up the monotony. I also came across a 2 speed powerglide trans which could be fun.
Decided to gut the car, ugly as shit sunshine yellow.
The white taped off stuff in the pictures is a texture spray paint for non-slip floor pans, its better than bed liner for this purpose.
I did clean up the car before primer, i just worked in sections. The paint in the floor pans takes FOUR HOURS to dry to the touch, and another 2-3 after that to be stepped on.
5 coats of white, right before going over everything with thinner to clean up the overspray and new battery location.
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I’m thinking about mounting the fuel cell vertical instead of horizontal in the future, i need to check space for nitrous oxide tank(s)
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Seats installed, they’ve got a strange bolt hole pattern, the fronts are slightly offset, i compensated the best i could but can only get 3 of 4 bolts to line up… if they don’t line up you can’t move the seats forwards or backwards.
I’ve reached the point of saying “fuck it” and i’m just going to weld them to the car once i get the roll bar / half cage in
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