Rear Caliper Help!

So today decided to do my rear breaks on my S13…new pads and rotors and cleaned up the caliper, put it back together took a bit…this was my first time ever doing brakes…soo bare with me here…so anyways put it back on the car and bled the system…3 times…problem now is the pedal still goes to the floor and the e break takes alot to hold the car…before it took 3 clicks and now it takes…over 20 and the e brake handel is wayy high up…so my question is,is the e break connected to maybe not bleeding the brakes enough?..there was fluid coming out so i dunno why it dident work i hooked the cable up properly and everything…

also when installing the pads i turned the piston all the way in on each one. from my understanding of the nissan guide i was looking at thats what i was supposed to do…and the new pads really woudent go in any other way…

so pedals almost going to the floor and the e breaks way high …so something messed up …first time doing brakes kinda feel like a newb posting this but hopefully tomaorw i can figure it out with someones advide…

Which side did you bleed first ? You need to start on the Passenger Side as its furtherest from the MC and then go over to the Driver Side etc. But you’ll probably have to bleed them more then 3 times each in order to get all the air outta the system…

Ebrake Wise… All that cable does is trigger the piston to move but if the calipers are bleed right then you’ll be required to put more tension on the cable to get the pistons to grab. That or you may need to re-adjust the ebrake cable to take up any slack that could possible be in it.

FYI… You didnt need to bleed the brakes because you replaced rotors/pads.

when ur bleeding the brakes are u closing off the bleeder when pumping? or closing it off when u bring the pedel up after u crack the bleeder screw?
if ur not doing this all ur doing is suckn in air. not to be a dick man . but breaks isnt something u wanna wing. if you dont know what ur doing or have someone there with u who knows what they are doing, then dont touch em.

I did bleed from passenger side…im going to go out and try again…i had my dad helping me who used to be a mechanic but i guess…old school…and not truely familar with disk brakes in the rear so…anyways going to see what i can do now… update later!

try pumping your ebrake a bunch of times to get the piston to move all the way in, then repeat the bleeding process

just got through ur prob here :slight_smile:

ok, the correct pattern to bleed the brakes is DRIVER SIDE REAR, PASS SIDE REAR, PASS Front, DRIVER FRONT…

you bleed the driver side first cause there is a 3 way connector beside the pass tire that brances off to the driver side making it the furthest from the set up…

if u have an ABS car there is a block u have to bleed aswell… check a FSM if u need the pages on brakes PM me for my MSN…

u may have a leak in your brake system, maybe a rotted line… close up all the bleeders and go over everyline with someone pumping the brakes…

is ur brake booster working?(when u start the car does the brake pedel sink further when fully pressed)

for the ebrake, try the adjestment screw if its not that then i bet you snapped one of the lines

final note… to properly bleed the brakes, press the pedel in and crack the bleeder, then close it after some shoots out, get your friend to release the brakes then press them again and crack the bleeder, DONT PUMP WITH THE BLEEDER OPEN, unless you have Russel Speed bleeders like me:)

one final note… the rear calipers are off a secondary system… meaning when bleeding your brakes you dont have to bleed them all just the rears if ur MC dosent go empty… the fronts are independent so one line from MC to caliper means air can only get in if you mess with that line/bleeder
the rears u have to do both cause there is one line that goes back to a 3way then goes to either side.

thanks for the help guys …turns out i jsut needed to bleedthem and the ABS evne though the ABS doesnt work since the SR…still gotta bleed it …anyway…thanks!