question, is it possible to remove p/s, a/c by just removing belt and is it safe.
i hear that you need to loop the p/s high pressure lines for smo0ther easier steering true? and if you answer yes to this, how can i loop em
using what.
thnx for reply
i dunno about the power steering, but the AC u should be able to just unbolt and get a smaller belt. it might take a few tries to get something that fits right so u dont have the tensioner maxed out one way or another.
for my car i dont even need to get smaller belt, the ac has its own separate belt so am just going to cut it off and remove a/c unit. for p/s i can also cut the belt , but i been hearing if you dont loop lines p/s pump creates pressure and sucks to drive the car that way.
not sure on power steering but find a flexable sewers tape then u can use that to figure out how long ur belt needs to be.
yes
have fun turning the wheel though
There’s an old honda write up on looping the PS…maybe I’ll look for it
you will be better off looping the power steering than just having it run through a pump that is not spinning
Why are you getting rid of power steering, is it really that much of an HP drain to be able to turn?
am trying to squeez every f**** bit of power out of this honda,i remeber seeing this review of the aem pulley kit for a civic, underdrive p/s and a/t pulley was around 3 hp, so am thinking if i remove the p/s, remove a/c and get under drive a/t and crack pulley maybe ill get 5 or 6 hp.
Cars that have a p/s / no p/s option are different. If you want to ditch p/s all together you have to swap for a manual steering rack. The gearing ratio is different in manual steering vs. p/s racks.
removing power steering the wrong way is just as good as running drag slicks on teh street … sure it puts down more power, but it also makes for a possibly unsafe condition
power steering only saps 2 or 3 horsepower when driving in a straight line, and when your turning your pobably not going full throttle anyways, so whats the use ? and you also have to remember that 3hp @ the crank only becomes 2hp @ the wheels due to drive train losses
youll never notice the extra power it gives you, you would need a dyno to test the difference (and its only possibleto test it this way on w/ a RWD car anyways)
a much better mod that will give you bigger gains is to install light weight wheels / tires if you havent done so already. heavy wheels can easily sap away well over 10 hp, ive seen dyno tests that show 18+ hp differance at the wheels
if you o switch to a manual steering setup, the only safe way to do it is to swap for a manual rack. the day you need quick stering response is the day you either love or hate the way you decided how to find a few extra HP