I have a 99 civic ex with d16y8
if i’d remove the p/s and a/c would it have any effect of my 1/4 mile time…if so, what would i expect…right now i have header, high flow cat, catback exhaust, and an aem short ram intake and it runs a wopping 16.6
i plan on turboing it or swapping it once i start saving money but for the time being would it be worth it to remove the p/s and a/c?
any tips on doing so if it would be worth it
save your money for either a turbo or drop a nice k series in it
do a k series if you plan on having months of downtime and spending about twice as much as you would to turbo. removing ps will give you about 1hp, removing ac will save you like 60 lbs. that’ll give you about another tenth of a second. there is no free horsepower. cams and a tune would be the logical next step and you’ll get decent power out of those.
I removed my P/S A/C belt at the track and dropped 2 .10th.
dunno if the lose of the belt was a cause of that or I just drove better…
PS… steering a car with a power steering rack with no belt on is an extreme bitch…
I wouldn’t do it… its not worth the convience that they both add to your car. I would just wait and piece together a cheap turbo kit and keep the p/s… im not sure if you can keep the a/c on the turbo swap or not… but im sure you can. Not up so much on my honda stuff anymore.
I have the a/c removed from my car. It saves a chunk of weight which like most people will say saves you about 1/10th sec in the quarter mile. As for P/S, all you can do is remove the belt, unless you find a manual steering rack. Some people remove the pump but then you are left with the issue of the power steering lines. For it to be properly capped off, there has to be a flow of power steering fluid going through the rack (it gets pushed around). Sooo, honda-tech might have a write-up on this, some people have found a steering rack modification with some parts to circulate the fluid. Or you can go the ghetto rigged way, tie your open lines to the highest point you can on the firewall, turn your steering wheel to the furthest both ways (to push out the fluid that will over flow), and hope nothing catches on fire (is p/s/ fluid flamable?). Anyhow, haven’t done it, just heard of it. If you really want to try, take your belts off and see if you notice a difference; if not, find another way to make power.
IMO, slightly build the motor, turbo it, tune it. A/C is a luxury that I miss, even with a targa top.
Cheers
you can leave the AC and boost it.
do not take it out trust me! it will not go any faster. there is always something you can do to make up for that extra 75 pounds
yea you will regret it
best advice ever
worst. advice. ever.
k-swap is for fanboys who read magazines and think “i can save up $200 a week for the next 3 years”. the real bottom line is its gonna run you $10K to do it right, unless you can buy a backhalved RSX-S for next to nothing. $6K for an engine/trans, $1K for a header, $1K for K-Pro, $500 for mounts, etc etc etc.
best bang for the buck, buy a $1K Greddy turbo kit for your y8, spend an extra $350 on a front mount and injectors/pump, and $300 on a decent tune session. you will blow a k20 off the road and should run safe for a few years.
and to those who say “but a k-swap has more potential”, tell them that when you blow their stupid k-doors off.
oh, forgot to mention, i personally have a b16b swapped hatch. i wish i had a/c, despite the sunroof. as for p/s, i have a 320mm wheel, quaife 3.25 LtL manual rack, and 205/45-16 bridgestone RE-01R’s lol, so thats my own issue
I came from your exact car to my H22 hatch so I have an idea of where you’re at.
I bought my car without P/S or A/C and honestly I wish every single day that I had them. A/C more than the P/S as it’s only really a pain when parallel parking but I miss them both. Like Joe said the 75lbs. isn’t going to change your life at the track, you still have a D16. I’d say turbo it or save up for a swap and keep your accessories.