(NOTE: I posted this same thread on several other boards, just so I can
get input from different people. The more I know/learn, the better). :wiggle:
My car: 1992 Nissan 240sx Coupe. Bone stock suspension. You can see
existing mods/info/pics about it on my website (see sig below)
I currently have the PDM-Racing bushing kit and swaybars which includes:
TC Rod Bushings
Rear Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushings
Front Lower Control Arm Bushings
Rear Subframe Bushings
Whiteline Front and Rear Swaybars
I also have a set of D2 coilovers that are currently on delivery and should,
hopefully arrive sometimes early April. The problem I have is, I want to get
all this installed before my first event with the car, which is on April 24th.
I would prefer to get this done at least a week or two in advance to allow
the changes to break in.
Seeing as the shocks/springs have to be removed in order to replace the
bushings for the rear bushings (I don’t think fronts need to be removed), I
would prefer to have the D2 while I’m doing the swap however I don’t want
to hold back till last minute.
I would have done the swaybars earlier, but I figure that I can do it while I
do the bushings swap as well. At least this way I can experience a more
drastic change in terms of before and after.
So, what I’m looking for is suggestions/tips, as well as any special tools I
would need in order to accomplish this task. I currently don’t have access to
a press, however my dad has a flat-bed press at his work (although I don’t
know if he would be able to let me use it). What other alternative do I have
to press the bushings in then?
I am sure some of you have done these mods (either on your car or friends)
so hopefully you can provide some tips/warnings before I attempt to do mine.
Oh yea, I also have the FSM (factory service manual) handy.
Ok, looking through Princess Auto’s website, I found two possible tools
I can use for pressing the bushings:
UNIVERSAL REMOVER TIE ROD END - $19.99
Compact design allows for use on most vehicles • Easily press out tie rod
ends as well as drag links. Cupped swivel screw adapter holds firmly on
tie rod stud 8000947 Wt. 1.6 lbs.
As for torch, I guess I can use that or just try and drill the bushings out.
So, anyone have any of these tools/press handy so I don’t have to buy them? :fingersx:
The arbor press only has a 4.5" stroke. I don’t think that’s enough.
As others have mentioned you’ll need a press. Neither of the Princess Auto tools you posted will work.
Toughest part is getting everything apart (often the bolts are rusted) and getting the old bushings out, I always burn them out with a torch… burn the rubber until the rubber and center part falls out then cut the metal sleve that is left. This is a really messy smelly process. If you can find someone who is able to press them out all the better, but it’s way more difficult than it looks even with a good press.
Only the inner bushing of the lower control arm, and the TC rod bushings (if you got the blue ones) need to be pressed in. All the rest are in three pieces that push in by hand if you use lots of the assembly lube that comes with them.
I’d say that the 1 day estimate that someone gave was optomistic, but possible.
You don’t need a press to remove or install the TC rod bushings.
Drill out the rubber around the inner metal bushing as much as possible until you can push it out. Cut through the outer metal sleeve doing as little damage as possible to the rod and pry it out.
It is very simple to push in the new bushing with a vice and in turn to push in the new inner metal sleeve (use a screwdriver or the handle of a medium-sized ratchet).
1/2 - 2 hour job if you haven’t done it before.
EDIT: Don’t listen to the people that say you need a shop to press in the new bushings. None of the bushings in the rear need to be pressed in.
Well, thta’s a relief. I guess the people that say that you need a press
are just saying it to save time in doing this. I may have access to a press
but I will leave it as a last resort. I’m still sticking to torching/drilling the
old T/C bushing.
Now this has all been discussion about the notorious T/C bushing, but what
about the rest of the bushings? What’s the story on them? I think taking
the arms of the car is a bitch in itself, but what about actually taking out
and putting in the bushings? I’m assuming this is somewhat easier
For the rears, you torch out the centre piece, cut through the metal sleeve with a hacksaw and push or pull them out with pliers. Install new ones by hand or vice. Very straight forward if you can loosen all your bolts. It does take time though.
MAKE SURE YOU DON’T BURN OUT YOUR INNER TOE-LINK BUSHING!!!
PDM’s set does not have a replacement for this…Nismo does. I just have to find out if there are any Nissan dealerships that can order it.
Sounds good. Question though, what exactly is the ‘inner toe-link bushing’?
Can you point in this pic:
Is it the rear toe rod?
I know it’s probablly easiest to learn by taking stuff apart, but in my case,
the fact that I’m no super-star mechanic, I would just rather prepare for
the worse by learning as much as I can before I actually do it.
You don’t need any special tools for any job… but one guy that says you need a press to do the front LCA bushings and the TC rod bushings knows what he’s talking about as he’s done several of these on 240’s and many many bushings over the years. Sure, you can always find some other inventive way of doing it, but if you are trying to plan ahead so that the job goes smoothly plan acess to a press for these bushings as it will make life so much easier for you.
Don’t listen to people who’s car sit in their driveway for weeks on end because they couldn’t get a bolt out, or burned out a bushing that wasn’t included in their kit…
I never said anything about the LCA bushing; you may be right about that.
The job will go smoothly if you have a vice to press in the TC rod bushings. I pressed in 2 in a matter of minutes last week without a press.
My car did not sit for more than half an hour after removing 4 bushings that were not included in a so-called “complete” suspension bushing kit…there are ways around everything.
I was looking for a long time for a dealership that could sell NISMO in Canada, but each one I called said that they weren’t carrying their parts yet, and it may not happen for a long time. I found a Nissan dealership in Texas that sells online and they carry a lot of NISMO parts. I ordered my tranny mount from them ('cause PDM wouldn’t break up the mount set for tranny and engine).
Their shipping is a little steep (US$34 on a US$49 part), but I got the part in three days with great service.
sorry, but back to the TC rod bushing. There was a post on FA a few months back, stating along the lines of that the TC rod was so ridgid after installing the urethane bushing (energy suspension hyper flex) that the TC Rod actually popped out of the front lower control arm (S14’s). They recomending drill pressing holes through the actual TC rod bushing (evenly spaced of course), about 8-12 to allow more flex in the bushing. Guys, don’t quote me verbatim on anything above, but it was along those lines. I did it, ran the car all winter, no problems so far, steering response improved (I have a 13" steering wheel, so results may vary).
Oh, and my mechanic pressed the bushings the old fashion way, with a press. It was a little tricky to get out (mine NEEDED to be replaced) but we manged in an hour.
you guys know a company that offers JUST the rear bushings (in a kit, or individually)?
Hrm, from what I have read, none of the S13 guys have complained
about too much flex causing bushings to pop out. And I don’t know
much difference between the Whiteline and Energy but most have the
Whitelines and I haven’t heard any stories like this.
The only other story I have read is that the front LCA seems to
bend/break due to too much stress but this has only been one case. The
rest seem to have nothing else wrong. This again, with the Whiteline bushing.
You can order bushings individually from PDM/Whiteline. Go to their
site if you want to order.
