Respraying My Car but I Need Some Help

At the end of last summer I sprayed my car BLUE. I really don’t like the color, it came out alot lighter than expected. I’ve finally decided that i’m just going to repaint it BLACK. Now my questions are…

-I know im suppose to scuff it before I repaint it but what grit is the best to use and what is the proper method. Or can you use a scuff pad???

-Do I need to Re-primer it?? or just paint the black on top of the scuffed blue???

Please don’t answer these questions if you have NO painting experience.
Thanks

anyplace your scuffing, use a grey scotch and the scuffing goo that comes in a tube. wonderfull results

anyplace thats scratched / has alot of orange peel / is going to get abused by road debris use 400 or 600 grit sand paper

no reason to reprime, paint is a great subsurface for more paint

IN SOME AREAS- depending on how many coats of paint are already on the car - it might not be a bad idea to off a few coats of paint. like the back edges of the doors or other areas that are easy to chip. throw some 120 grit on a DA and take off a few layers (not to bare metal) and then resand with 400 wet

thicker paint chips easier, which is why (for exapmle) extra coats of clear is a waste of money. the thicker the paint the deper and wider the rock chips will eventualy be

assuming you used a decent quality paint then you should be able to just paint over it after scuffing. Some paints may react and cause a big mess so be careful or shoot a test piece first.

I would wet sand the car myself but scuffing will work provided its smooth

ok, i’ve been doing the correct process. Thats good to hear. I’ve been using a body scuff pad on the whole car and its coming out very smooth. How important is the Gel??? cause I have not been using it and it is taking quite a long time to finish. Maybe im just impatient. lol

Do you have to do this all by hand or can you use something? I’ve been doing it by hand.

I’d just scuff with a 1000 grit untill all the shine is gone and you have a smooth surface to work with.

the scuff goo cuts the work at least in 1/2, and things come out WAY more scuffed in the process

its also cleans as you scuff, so your less likely to have crap on the surface that screws up the paint job

the stuff we used at schmitts was made by SEM, cant remember the name or # anymore tho

edit: sem “scuff and clean” (imagine that, lol) http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sem38338.html

I use 220 before I prime, 600 before I paint

lol. Well looks like I need to take a trip to the store.

^^^ where are you at ? i just dug thru my “stolen from schmitts garage” box and came up with almost a full tube of sem 38338. its yours if u want it

im in west seneca a short drive away from hybrid

You suck lol. I left before I saw your post and i went to all the local car part stores. AND NO ONE HAS IT!!!

Im in Cheektowaga, I gotta go to work now so I can’t come get it. Is their a place locally that sells it??? If not then yea I’d take it. Hit me up with a PM with some info. Thanks

EDIT - Yea just saw that sherwin-williams carries it. I’ll just grab it there when i go get my paint. You might need it in the furture, who knows lol. Thanks anyway.

[quote=“articzap,post:5,topic:26809"”]

I’d just scuff with a 1000 grit untill all the shine is gone and you have a smooth surface to work with.

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You think 1000 will provide enough “bite” for the new paint to grab on to?

[quote=“Schema,post:11,topic:26809"”]

You think 1000 will provide enough “bite” for the new paint to grab on to?

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Thats on top of his primer though, I think so.

1000 grit is best left for either cutting / buffing activities, or for de-nibing one of your coats of paint / clear while painting

it can also be used for prepping a section for a clearcoat blend

when it comes to scuffing / sanding in preperation for paint, the best bet is to go with just fine enough of a grit that the paint will cover it w/ screwing up any metallic in the process

1000 is not a grit to be used for scuffing before a shoot

Interesting, thats what they taught us to use for paint and clear blends.

[quote=“articzap,post:14,topic:26809"”]

Interesting, thats what they taught us to use for paint and clear blends.

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I ended up using 1000 before I painted my quarter panel. Came out looking really nice, but I noticed (after 2 months) a tiny piece just flaked off, and saw the primer beneath it. I’m sure it was caused by that. I think a 600, maybe 4 even would be good to paint over and have it hold. Either one shouldnt reveal ridges when the new coat is applied.

Ahwell, thats the good thing about paint, you can just re do it and learn from it. I’m just starting to learn about painting, fun stuff.

i use 300 before i paint anything comes out perfectttttttttttt…

hey ryan if u need some help let me know, i have some expirence the the painting game

Hahaha, the comic strip in your sig is awesome. You have a helpful PM sir.