Review: U2NDYNO the day of the tune and one week later...

This is my review/experience with U2NDYNO
So, my car was tuned by Dan “Happy240sx” from U2NDYNO.com, for those who have never heard of him, you need to get out from that rock you live under.
I had met Dan before he had his mobile dyno/tuning services, and he was always a cool guy. Having seen his S14 up close when it was making 400+whp on his GT28 and heard it was seeing 20PSI daily made him the obvious choice when I wanted my SR with Power FC tuned.

After some scheduling conflicts we finally settled on a tune day that worked for the both of us, He was always easy to get a hold of via e-mail and easy to work with. Upon my arrival he was getting the dyno ready and then he quickly bolted the car up.
The motor is a stock SR with FMIC and 3" turbo-back exhaust. Why tune this you might ask? Well, I had the Power FC sitting in the closet for a year and couldn’t see it collecting dust anymore, so I installed it and figured why not get it tuned and see the progress as more and more mods get added.
Dan jumps in the car and starts going crazy on his laptop. For the first little while he did some monitoring and changed a few settings here and there at different load points. Next he was ready to run a baseline. The car was accelerated in 4th gear but by 4000-4500RPM Dan quickly let off the throttle. For some reason the motor was running lean at 16+ AFR and he wasn’t comfortable with that. After a little tweaking he did another baseline pull this time he got a full reading. The motor made roughly 188hp and 186ft/lb. On a dynojet this same setup made 204whp and 202wft/lb which is about 8.5% more than the dynopack, this appears to be normal. You can find an article on the U2NDYNO website about this here: http://u2ndyno.com/index.php?action=fullnews&id=13 . Now that the baseline was established Dan knew what he was working with and began making some adjustments here and there searching for steady AFR’s. The next 3 pulls the car went up to about 200hp and 200ft/lb. After some cooling down he made some more adjustments and we upped the boost to 10PSI, a nice safe daily driver number for the T25 (I know some people run 12PSI but whatever). The next few pulls and tuning changes made more and more power. After the AFR across the whole RPM range was adjusted Dan moved on to the timing. Once everything was said and done the car rolled out making 225hp and 224ft/lb. unfortunately the AFR line was not as smooth as Dan would have liked. The AFR’s are around the 12 mark but there is the one point from 4000-4800RPM where they get up 13 and the injector correction is maxed out, whether the motor flows really well at this point or not I clearly need bigger injectors. Also the “el cheapo” manual boost controller I have does not hold boost very well, at about 5200-5400RPM the boost falls from 10 to 9 then back the stock 8.5, this causes the power pretty much stay flat from 5400-6500 then fall to 200 at 7000, and causes the torque to fall steady from about 222 about at 5400 down to 150 at 7000. A good boost controller should help keep the torque a bit flatter from the 5000-6500 range and should definately help the power climb to 230+ at 6500. Either way I walked out of there a happy customer making considerably more power and the motor was feeling super smooth when I drove home.

Now, one week later…
So it has been a week since Dan tuned my Power FC and I have gone through almost 2 full tanks of gas, I spend 45KM on the 401 going to work and 45KM going home. This plus my daily city driving and all I have to say is WOW. The car is nice and responsive, it just picks up and goes compared to before. The fuel economy is great, better than stock. I am not the kind of person who does not drive super conservatively, I drive normal but push the car every so often, gas prices suck especially for 94 but hey, I am not into this kind of stuff to save on gas… either way I was getting 450-500KM to the tank on the stock ECU. I have driven conservatively a few times strictly highway and was able to get 550-600KM to the tank. Now with the normal driving and actually pushing it a tad bit harder I am getting 475-550KM to the tank. On this second full tank of gas I am at roughly 1/4 tank left (the 3rd line) and at 450KM (on stock ECU I would be at 425KM)I normally get 90KM from the 3rd line to just about empty. I have reached 3 litres left in the tank a few times.
The most surprising change to me though is the exhaust noise, it is actually less droney. Cruising on the highway does not result in the same amount of drone that I was getting before and even friends have noticed the exhaust sounding like it has a bit smoother tone without me mentioning anything.

That has been my experience so far. I plan on picking up an adjustable wastegate actuator to help fix my boost issue and then having the car dyno’d on a dynojet to compare HP results. If the same 8.5% gain is present as the baseline I should see 240+whp and 240+wft/lb.

For all the guys out there who want to get their car tuned but do not have any knowledge of tuning or need it done right, I highly recommend you hit up Dan to have your car tuned. He has a really good flat rate; he will tune your car till it is perfect and reliable no matter how long it takes for the same price. He knows his SR’s really well and won’t ask you to step away or hide what he is doing from you when he is tuning YOUR car that you love and care for. He is super easy to deal with, and not afraid to mention any issues or changes that he is making when asked.

U2NDYNO.com for the win!
I will defiantly go back when I get injectors, MAFS, and a bigger turbo :slight_smile:

THANKS DAN!

Wow, sounds like a great experience, and sounds like you got MORE then what you wanted.

I know I’ll be heading to Dan when the time comes.

Grats =)

Happy’s a kool guy

Nice! 240+whp at how many psi in the end?

The 240whp is at about 10PSI provided that the 8.5% increase is present on the Dynojet. Since the Dynapack generally displays 8-10% less HP than a Dynojet, I am guessing that my current 225HP limited by my boost dropping off should equal 240whp on a Dynojet.
I will have it dyno’d for comparison in about a week and a half. Hopefully I will have better means of controlling the boost by then and will see 250whp on a Dynojet… one can only hope

Meh, who cares about a Dynojet. I dyno’ed at 248whp at 13 psi on a Dynapack and that’s good enough for me. At our levels, I don’t think theres a point in dynoing your car on another dyno just to show people that you have 250whp. Just enjoy the car. :slight_smile: Tuning is the best thing anyone can invest in.

Congrats! I can’t wait to see your car. :slight_smile:

Can he retune an ECU or just tune piggybacks and stand alones?

He can tune anything. You just need to have an ECU thats tunable.

For example, he tuned my Hondata ECU a couple weeks ago which is basically a stock ecu with an eprom.

met dan in person at bings

cool guy, he knwos he has my business when my new motor is in

It’s not that I care about having the 250whp on the Dynojet. It’s mostly curiousity on the difference for my motor and because the oppertunity came up this past weekend. I have a friend who is going to a dyno with some of his pontiac club buddies for a few hours and since we both just got our cars tuned he offered that I come along and get 2 pulls done. They are getting dyno’d for a test and tune track day at St Thomas on the 28th. I jumped on the chance because it’s free and I am curious. Plus it gives me a reason to hurry up and fix my boost issue instead of forgetting about it for a few months.
Trust me, at Dan’s dyno rates I wouldn’t bother going anywhere else, $100 for 3 pulls with boost and AFR, can’t be beat, especially with how the Dynapac can go so deep into the HP, PSI, and AFR reading.
None of the local guys will offer boost and AFR for $100 unless times are slow or you know them.

Thanks for the feedback Fil…I’m glad you’re happy. I think for 10psi the car is doing really well which means that with a bigger turbo, Z32 MAF and some decent injectors you’ll be into the 300+ club without much more effort.

I really was suprised how far off the PFC base was. I’ve done a number of PFC tunes and while the majority are not optimal for each respective car, they are at least safe.

Perhaps this is a lesson to some other folks as well. A wideband really can be one of the best investments you can make. You can get AEM or Innovate gauges for $300-$500… and saving a motor for that amount of money is priceless in my opinion…but then again $500 is what I charge to tune a PFC so you chose.

So, for all of you guys running around on PFC bases untuned…call me…your motor will thank you.

Thanks again to all the folks in this thread for the kind words.

I was thinking more along the lines of tuning my factory KA ECU when I get the turbo installed.

In the coming weeks I’ll actually be tuning a Skyline with NisTune.

NisTune is a brand new product coming out which is the Nissan counterpart to ROM boards like Hondata, Chrome, Neptune etc. in the Honda world.

Time will tell but this could prove to be a decent lower cost option to full standalone ecus.

I’ve heard some stuff about NisTune. Keep us informed man. I’m curious.

Also, you should invest in another set of dynapacks so you can do the Skyrine guys in AWD :wink:

I’ve also had great experience with Dan. I bought some SR parts off him which were exactly as described, he even let my GF use his bathroom :P… And he was willing to squeeze me in at the start of a dyno day and tune my car, even though it was supposed to just be a baseline day… Car had other issues, and it didn’t happen, but he was willing to go through the effort.

Hey 240sxfan, things lookin good.

Sorry for the shamless plug, but I’ve still got my EBC if you want it. :slight_smile:

In order to tune the factory ECU you would need some means of accessing the maps, I do not think that is easily done and would probably require a reflash of teh stock ECU. Daughterboards or EEPROM emulators are probably the cheapest and best method. These will force the ECU to read the board/emulator maps instead of it’s preprogram stock maps. If something goes really wrong you just remove the daughterboad/emulator and you are back to stock.

Someone correct me if I am wrong

Thanks Osad,
I actually checked out your EBC and although it is a sweet price, it is a little more than I am willing to spend right now for 10PSI on the T25. I am looking at a used Garret Adjustable Wastegate Actuator at the moment for about $50

NP man, I can work a price with you if you need, but do what you gotta do man! :slight_smile: Hope the project continues well!

Hey Fil, that’s great! I still need to install my WB02 and tune… Hmmm…

PS Do you still have the BBS rims I sold you? If you are still interested in selling them I may know someone.