been looking around and can only find generic plain gussets…looking for something that will look nice.
any ideas where nice ones can be had?
those are nice thank you…i think im going for this
I really like sheet metal gussets, with dimpled holes. Youd have to fab them yourself, but they look really nice and add alot of structure.
Dan
just get custom ones water jetted or laser cut
Not feeling the brass knuckles ones at all. All I can picture is some douche bag with a pube stasch, wife beater, shorts way too low and a chain hanging out.
I don’t know this stuff really good, but learning alot form nick. This is for drag racing… I remember asking about gussets and believe he said they really don’t help anything for a rollbar. I know he said how in general mild steel might even be better, that IN a bad crashes mild steel will bend up absorbing a lot of energy. And not break welds and tube off like 4130 will, what broken tubes are very dangerous for obvious resons. THAT is not including the whole weight thing. being to heavy or too light can just just as bad, thats why There in the weight limits for the speeds for a 25.2 25,5 and soon 25.3 specs. Its about how fast a car can be at a set weight and be safe. All the full tube stuff is 4130 because its saver having the car lighter. I dont know for sure I think even the 8-10point 8.50 non funnycar upgrade has to be 4130. And mild isn’t even legal anymore. You have to remember too all the specs for the big cage stuff is just for keeping the driver safe, not whats the strongest, best, easier to make, or fastest chassis style. Its only really just the driver side of the car and around him. anyway…
He said about having to much “weld”… like fully welding my harness tabs. Just puts more heat into that area making it more brittle: Your weld should be stronger then the 2 going parts are, if not you suck and its dangerous. Like on these tabs, you have a .120 stamped plate your welding to a thinner tube 1 3/4 .083 4130, or .095 mild steel hoop and door bars. And 1 5/8 on more then 8point. Seat bars only have to be 1 1/2 and .058 I believe.
But the weld is going to be stronger then the tube is, and rip the material off the tube, with the weld on the tab. So fully welding the top and bottom of the harness tab put unnecessary heat into that area of the tube making it more brittle for the weld to rip off. So Just the ends were welding around the sides, and a full bead along the top to look good. But along the bottom isn’t welded. I think its the same deal with the little 1 1/2 1 1/2 corner gussest with 3 holes in them…
edit, ya just text him, said right on the corner a plate gusset dosn’t do shit. Do a corner tube gusset outside the other welds if you need anything.
This is my idea of a nice gusset.
Most road race cars use mild steel (unless you have more money than brains). You can no longer go down a tubing size in SCCA by using 4130, so the weight savings is almost nil.
Anyway, I love sheet metal dimpled gussets.
That is all
Dan
This is for more of a look over strength
All the people saying that the gusset is for looks are wrong. Especially in a high alloy cage, where the heat affected zone of the weld can be brittle, it transfers the load outward to an area with less moment and lower stress.
^ word.
In addition to gussets, the welds should be stress relieved as well once everything is fully welded.
^ that is most important in the case of higher alloy (ie: 4130) welds correct? I didnt think this was as much of a concern with mild steel.
Dan