from what i discovered, this problem usualy occurs from either no spark, ie, bad plugs, rotor, and wires. Or bad injector, ie, injector, wiring, or computer.
My car did the same thing as yours originally, way back in june, but it went away, i suspect that the injector wire had loosened or shifted, but it shifted back.
My computer problem is interesting, only the #4 injector lead was dead, all the other’s worked perfectly fine. And as for changing the computer, it’s simple, just take off the kickpanel(2 screws) then unbolt the harness(1, 10mm bolt) then unbolt the ECU(2, 10mm bolts). Plug the harness in and away you go.
I think that racer240sx might have one left from the swap, it’s a sohc ecu if he has it.
my ride has a rough low idle problem now too. just happened recently.
anyway, is there anyway i can test the plug wires, or do i have to just replace them? i’m gonna go ask the techs around my shop, was hoping you guys may know.
Hey, Thanx for the info Black Apple. I will check with racer240x.
And GreyGandalf_S14, I was with my mechanic when he checked out my car…What he did was let the car idle. And he pulled out one plug first (Use the tongs or pliers, don’t grasp it by the wire) checked whether there is any difference. Put it back & try the next plug. This way if there is something wrong with a particular cylinder, you will notice no difference in the engine idle when you take out the defective one. If you find this happening for any particular cylinder - then try to check out the plugs/injector/wires for this cylinder.
thanks for the tip guys. if you touch the wire while the car is on, you’ll get little shocks (learned from experience).
I’m thinking it may be a vacuum leak, since the weather is colder, the plastic i used for my intake extension may have shrunk? anyway, i am going to test my wires, and then probably take off my intake extension, and just put my cone filter on the end of the maf to see if that helps.
anyone know how to test the maf? i’ve unplugged it before, and sometimes it sputters, and sometimes it stays the same.
ran a scan test last night, need to replace maf, knock sensor (bank one) and a air intake temp sensor (anyone know which sensor this is, its called something else in the fsm i believe?).
i figure i goota take off my intake manifold, unless you guys know another option?
I’ve found that once the weather starts getting cold, my car has poor ideling upon clod starts (-0). It idles at around 500, untill I give her a little gas. This is actually the result of a worn out Temp Sensor. It’s a simple part to replace and shouldn’t be too costly.
Before going ahead and changing the sensor, check the Distributor cap/ rotor, wires, plugs, clean/ replace air filter, do a Throttle body cleaning, Clean the TPS if you know how to put it back on.
if you did any work on the Throttle body or around it, you might have shifted the TPS a degree out of place, that will throw you idling right off. Consult your FSM for details on how to adjust the TPS (you’ll need a multimeter for this).