+rep!
If you don’t know who he is, you have no idea the level of irony that comment hit… if you know who he is then you are one sarcastic son of a bitch! loool
you clearly have no fucking clue what you are talking about.
How long is a patch going to last? that depends on how well the patch is performed, if all you do is cut the patch weld it in, then prime and paint , not long at all. but if the patch metal is cleaned, de-scaled, wiped down and acid etched, before the paint process then it will last as long as the car runs.
If rust came through on a fender in one spot the whole fender is the same age so there is rust there it just hasnt come through yet. NO…just fucking no. metal doesnt oxidize because its old, it oxidizes and corrodes when the bare metal is directly exposed to oxygen or any corrosive elements (such as salt, or water).
heat from welding speeds up the process of rust. then explain to me how hot rolled steel doesnt rust faster than cold rolled?..its not the heat, when the metal is molten or extremely hot and impurities such as air come into contact with it the contaminate it and create a starting point for rust…why do you think there is pre-flow and post-flow on mig and tig welders?
i had a rust spot on my vehicle that bubbled through the paint and i did the repair right using nothing but touch up paint…4 years ago and to this day there is still zero rust in that area.
next time you try to argue about metallurgy because a couple of your buddies are fucking hacks and you think you know everything, open a fucking book first.
Man literally has 28%+ lead content in his blood from doing the worlds best body work for 60+ years. That man can take a shit with more body work skills than the entire staff combined at “XYZ Autobody” around here.
And there are men out there who can take a sheet of cold rolled and form a 32 chevy rear quarter, trunk gasket surface to door jamb with an english wheel, bead roller and thats about it… in less time than you can walk into Keystone, order a 1/4 and have them pull it off the shelf.
So were all on the same page if you weld a patch in the heat will burn the paint off inside the panel and the rust will form on the unprotected metel… And if that doesnt make sense to any of you your just plain fucking stupid…And I can no longer have a battle of wits with anyone thats unarmed…Get your head out of your ass and think…Ask any good body man what is the BEST way to fix rust unless he is a hack he will tell you replace the panel…
But how many people do it that way??? Im sure there are shops out there that are good and even still use lead as filler on seams…But most dont give a flying fuck and just want the almighty dollar for doing a bang up job…That is all I am saying… Most shops just want to make big bucks for little work…And most customers dont want to pay to have it done right…
thats what I consider an incomplete job. end oh story.
Againt my simple end all be all arguement is this… do you just give up when you cant order a replacment complete header panel for a 1941 Mercury coupe? And if you actually find a replacement panel, your going to replace the entire fucking panel, all the parts attached to it, split the body, etc… and WELD a new one back in place anyways? And lets keep it relivant to the OP’s question… He has a rear 1/4 on a honda some shit that needs to be fixed. Those panels dont just get painted on a stand and bolted to the car! Your cutting the entire side off the car, removing the rear glass, drilling out the door jamb, the drip rail, pulling gaskets, drilling out tail light buckets, etc… and your still welding the fucking thing on in the end. Or panel bond it, sure take the easy way out. lol
My brother and I do.
And you dont need lead. Again, a skilled metal shaper can take 10 pieces of sheet, form them and weld them up, work the welds and panel to the point literally zero filler, plastic, lead, or fairydust is needed to prep the surface for primer and paint. Hell I can rip a piece of 20 ga in half, tig it back up, run it through the planishing hammer, prim and paint it and hand you the piece to point out where I made my cut/weld. you wont be able to show me I put money on that.
With the last part of that reply… this is why I invite you to re-read my comment where I said I am NOT here to argue business, profitability, etc. I am here to tell you that welding a fuckin patch panel in the correct way is 100% acceptible means to make a repair or modification. For fucks sake, how do you think a body is assembiled in the first place? Its welded in thousands of spots! Look at the small picture and work your way out to understand it… metal melts, flows together, is shielded from oxygen as it cools, you now have one fucking piece of material to work from. You fuck up the process before OR after that and you have an inadiquate repair. simple as that.
learn how to spell, dipshit. nobody here is arguing that replacing a panel is the best way but you seem to think it is the only way. and no if you weld you should paint and rust-proof the backside of the panel…just give it up already, it’s getting sad watching your dumb ass ice skate up a hill.
Anybody can spell with spell check asshole…I guess your talking about metel instead of metal…Whatever half the shit on here is just that shit…So get over yourself!!!
You guys are the kings…And are a rare breed and yes if you cant get the panel go for it and fabricate it…But there are people that will spend hours on a rust hole on a Civic fender and you can buy a new one for less then a $100…So whats the point…You are the greatest and everbody knows it…But BDSKJ is just an Asshole and everyone knows that too…
