I’m sure that, I have forgotten more then you know…You are one of these know it all that know nothing about anything :rofl as I said before get over yourself look in the mirror and what do you see:asshole
I never claimed to be the best… but I drive a pretty damn good point with my work, skills then more importantly knowledge and expierence.
The one thing I never understood… when someone is right and they argue that point with facts and evidence why are they all of a sudden a know it all prick or gods gift to (insert applicable topic here)? I have tried to sugar coat my comments, I tried to cut them down in size, use more detail, less detail, make them easier to understand or harder to understand… no matter what I have people that appreciate me for me, and I have people to hate me for their reasons.
Guess, what.
That doesn’t mean I cant make a patch panel stick and hold paint for decades so I don’t give a royal fuck if they like my attitude or not… i still get shit done. Getting shit done gets me paid and makes me happy.
Maybe if more people woke up that strive to learn and achieve new things, every day, they might know a thing or thirty. I spent 2 days learning more about the differences and practical reasons for positive, neutral and negative rake geometry on single point cutting tools… what did you learn today?
hit the nail right on the head pro-derp, please enlighten me.
do you guys need a room?
I learned today that BDSKJ is a first class ass and is a pencil neck geek…And that you have your opinion and I have mine…Rust is a pain in the ass and in a perfect world, the state, county and towns wouldn’t use salt on the road and people would just have to learn how to drive on snow and get tires to handle the road conditions…And then your vehicle would last longer then a few years if you know how to drive… Years ago they use just sand and the cars lasted for years and didnt rust… I also learned Krazy Kid gets shit done…And sharp tools save time and cut better…
what did you find out about me?
well im glad we are all on the same page now. hahaha
I learned from your comment that you are a use car salesman. And bold face lie to a people and think nothing of it…You say you have never used Bondo in anything…And this is how you lie…Bondo is a brand name and because you dont use that brand its not a lie…But it really is…Anyone who says they dont use some kind of filler in a body repair is a liar. Even the factory uses filler in the seams of the quarter panels to roof panel… And if you are patching a rust hole how do you make the area smooth??? Oh I know 1,000,000.coats of sandable primer…Yeah right… I dont know you and you dont know me opions are like assholes and everyone has one…Im sure you sell decent cars and Im sure they are not as perfect as you say they are…And every dealer want to make money and the cheaper they can fix the car the more money they make…I have been doing this for alot longer then you, trust me I have seen it all and busted them too…
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I can and have made repairs or custom panels that required zero filler and the paint was flat as glass. I have seen bodies made 100% from steel, take primer and paint, thats it. again zero filler.
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Factories use seam sealer not “filler” for 1/4’s to roof’s. Actually its panel bond to be specific. The valleys where 2 pieces of metal are spot welded together they put a bead of seam seal so that moisture and dust/dirt doent get stuck between the V shape seam, and as metal expends/contracts and vibrates it doesnt make “sand paper” if you will, which will sand itself through the paint and to the metal, starting rust. Which is exactly how 99% of the “rust cancer” is formed on unibody cars these days.
-You patch a rust hole like this. Cut the hole out, never leave sharp square corners on the cuts, even if your welding it 100%, always use rounded corners (drill 4 holes and connect the dots) to remove the bad metal. Cut a piece of new metal out, shape it as needed… this could be a 2" dia circle thats flat or a 2 quare foot compound curved, bead rolled, whoesewhatsy patch panel. Then your prep your work, … and bam you have 100% clean metal infront of your face. If you are good at your work, grab the SlickSand 2K primer and your 2.2 tip gun and spot in your primer. Block it, seal it if needed again, base, clear… get paid. fuck bondo.
-1 million coats of anything is actually OK, technically. If your surface prep is correct on each prior coat for mechanical and chemical adhesion, you can put all the coats on you want. until you hit the industry “standard” mill thickness maximum. To be really technical, if you NEED 1/2" of bondo, dont do it all in one swipe! there is a max recommended thickness PER APPLICATION… and again, if your prep is right you can slather layer after layer to complete your cave and pave repair if thats how you roll.
I cant wait till my brother and I’s hard work pays off in a few years. Just so I can see the faces on the people who laughed at me who said I will never make “good money” spending 1000 hours forming a body for a customer from scratch, or making a panel instead of getting a miss formed “close enough” replacement from LKQ or LMC. Like you said opinions are like assholes… I like the saying there is an ass for every drivers seat. There are thousands of cheap fuckers looking for “good enough” willing to drop $3k for a car someone built… well there are also plenty of people who know what they want, know what to look for and are ready to drop $103k on a car someone built. Which is why I wont take on 3K turds, because the work and the result dont make me happy regardless of the “profit” or the $/hr I made on the job. And contrary to popular belief, the ones who spend money on what they want are 1000 times easier to make happy than the one who look to save $100 on the turd car deal. If someone is in the game for the money, fuck if I care that they bend brake wear tabs back so they dont make noise on test drives just to sell a turd to make a buck. Good for them. We (my brother and I) were never and will never be in this “game” for the money. We enjoy making something the next “car guy” over there cant. The fruit for our labor is more the hunk of metal instead of the wad of cash.
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Apparently no one saw my post. Rust is in. If you want to be cool don’t fix it. Easiest and most cost effiecient of all the scenerios.
Also filler can be a good friend to any quality body shop. No reason why filler is a negative word in body work. Used improperly it is. Used right it will last.
Rust is only cool if you’re a flatbrimmer
Like I said Krazy You and your brother are a rare breed in a good way....and I agree with you.. The shop I have and the one that does my body work is like you guys, they have a love for cars and won't do it wrong...It takes a long time to build a reputation to where your customer will hand you a blank check and say fix it and whatever it takes just do it...I dont do bodywork!!!I don't like body work unless its a hot female...LOL.. I build muscle cars,race engines and do performance upgrades. After working for 40 years in dealerships and my own repair shop...I decided it was time to enjoy my work and do what I love to do and enjoy my performace cars...So dont ever loose what you have worked to build and stay honest and true it will pay off...Bill
maybe i should clarify, instead of using 10 gallons of filler with no metal I use a thin layer over my patch, which to my knowledge and im not a bodyguy almost HAS to be done… I have seen people stuff news paper in holes and bondo over… I do what is the best possible way without replacing the entire car like you think people should on a $1,500 car… If a fender is $40, its more cost effective to get a new fender.
I thought youd have some more interesting news about me, im dissapointed 
Well boost, I dont know you and one thing I am not is a liar so for me to try and make something up just to make it interesting news for you would be a lie …But if what I said doesnt suit your fancy Im am sure someone on here will give you what you need to satisfy you…If you want to know how to do a patch without filler Krazy spells it out for you in his previous post…It makes sense to me but I am not a bodyman unless she is smokin hot…I do engine builds, performance mechanical stuff,and muscle car shit…
I made cab corners out of a nerf football, hot glue, cardboard and fiberglass body filler on a truck I owned.
Wow, this went from body shop suggestions to complete Shift518 Clusterfuck (trademark pending) faster than usual.
I could care less about everyone’s opinion of me, but Jesus, answer the question and move the fuck on.
Or just buy a car without rust…
what at the fuck did I just read, I have a serious headache now…John
Best advice yet lol
And just as useless as all the bickering
This is an 100% honest question… if you took the time to read all the shit i posted… did you actually learn something and was it at least somewhat useful for you. Maybe now you have a better idea of how to feel out a potential body shop’s competence level to do the work to your satisfaction?
thats wasnt trying to be snarky or anything… I honestly want to know if my effort was apprecieated or not, or how I could have done “better” if it wasnt.