Car isn’t starting, starter isn’t running - Starter is new and car will start if starter is hot wired…
I’m pretty sure I jumped the right wires for the neutral bypass/ inhibitor…
Top plug on the fuse relay box - Black-White & Black-Yellow wires
Perhaps a picture of what I’ve done would be better?
when intially applying power to the car no warning lights are on.
When cranking the car check engine light is on as well as abs light and the lights remain on when the key is out!! also when the key is removed the parking brake light goes on too… :shock:
Using Automatic Computer
I checked the code from the ECU and its 55 -
"55 - Normal engine management system operation is indicated – this means all is OK. " http://www.ka24development.com/ecu_codes.html
After hot wiring the starter, the car is running around a steady 2300 rpms… fast idle for cold temp…
Also when the warning lights go out. When the car is shut off the lights are out… also when the key is removed.
However, the lights go back on and stay on (as stated above) when i try to crank it and remove the key
Don’t have anything on the digital speedo either… Still have to wire up the VSS? unlees the VSS was damaged when the engine and tranny was removed, removed as one
I took the engine and tranny out of the 91 FB and transplanted it into the Coupe, changed over the power steering pump and pulleys on the 91 (i.e)hicas to non-hicas
Removed A/C, Carbon Canister, Pair Valve and PAIRC-solenoid Valve,
I’ve checked all the grounds and plugs compared it to a working 91’ FB manual…
everything seems to bee in place minus the manual to auto tranny wiring
well my buddy rigged up a near factory-ish clutch start system… bypassed the auto inhibitor, wired the clutch up to a relay which is wire to the ignition and starter…
When the car runs the warning lights go out and when you shut the car off and pull the key the lights are off…
Now if you put the key in and go to the on position and don’t crank the car the lights stay one when you pull the key out… :shock:
the lower manual harnes doesn’t match up to the auto engine bay harness? I don’t beleive its a direct plug and play… I traced the wires in the FSM and the plugs are differet?
well the car was running fine… Now if the car doesn’t turn over the EGI relay goes nuts… tried swapping relays but it keeps humming away… only stops when the key is in and turned at least to acc
also the digital display goes out after a couple seconds now…
Haven’t changed much and only drove the car around the parking lot
I’ve checked just about every ground and they’re in place… Battery is new… The wires added for the starter are direct from ignition to the starter…
I’ve got some sort of electricl gremlin somewhere…
there was a bunch of aftermarket stuff in the car… and a lot of spliced in lines and stuff for NOS, deck, fan wiring, srs etc… Well maybe its time I rip the dash out and check all the wiring I can’t see…
Another thought is just running without the EGI and swapping in the analog cluster… Though if the digital speedo goes out perhaps I won’t have a speed reading with the analog cluster…
I have the 93 FSM in a pdf…
swapped to the manual ECU and the engine feels way better.
also ripped out the auto computer too.
so currently it shouldn’t matter if the inhibitor is jumped or not.
Also I swapped the digital dash to the analog one and I do have a speed reading, mind you the digital one did show speed but it still cut out after a second or two
Disconnect the EGR electrical plugs and ripped out the EGI relay…
Still have the no crank key out warning light problem but I’ll live with it till I spend some time to rip out the dash…
clean out a bit more of the garbage wiring then I guess its time for a good road test…
