Hey guys
So I got most of the bugs worked out of my KA24det and now the last thing is the ECU from enthalpy. It seems this ECU is running such a rich mixture that my car has problems with flooding. When I look at my narrow band and let it settle on idle it says its running extremely rich at best.
So my question is, is there someone in TO (preferably East end) that can tune this car correctly? and if so do they need some form of an AFC and Wideband to do so?
Tony at DMT.
Also, a wideband is pretty much a must with any turbo car… I assume you have some sort of aftermarket engine management? (please for the love of god don’t say SAFC)
nope just a tuned ECU from what the guy at enthalpy and what i have heard online you shouldn’t need any engine management system with this. This is a Chipped ECU should be as good if not better then a stand alone. You do need a very specific hardware setup.
Does this Ecu allow you to change it? Or are you locked out of the Ecu and stuck with one tune?
What maf are you running? If its a z32 please tell me its genuine not one of the shit eBay ones.
And you should have a wide band. It could save your motor.
ECU’s aren’t locked in. If you need a re-tune, you send it back for $150.
spend $200 buy the aem wideband from garage 16 … install it and see.
if its too rich then buy a safc and cut fuel… u can do this urself.
enthalpy tunes arnt bang on
What I meant was can it be tuned without you having to send it back. Like nistune.
JWT required you to send it back, and I see as does this company.
I’d save for a standalone. It’s all about you. Pre tunes are okay for easy use. Anything higher they are dangerous.
get a aem wideband and verify your afr’s. if it is really rich email martin at rs enthalpy he will reflash the ecu for you
Yeah I have been in contact with Martin hes very cool and said he can reflash it if my BOV is not the problem. The maf is an N60 its ligit. You are locked in to an extent, you have to send it back to get retuned.
My main problem is I know more about how to build an engine then how they are suppose to run correctly. So I can put a full turbo setup together but no idea whats the correct operation of one as this is the first turbo I have ever owned or driven.
My latest problem is the car stalled out on the road when I gave the car some power and not even full power. I checked the cylinders and plugs 123 are dry as a bone with no fouling of the plugs or gas smell. cyilinder 4 however is wet and has a slight gas smell. makes me think the injectors may be toast. and also dont know if the BOV placement is right or wrong for these KATs.
Check the injectors and can u log the car? Or do u no have the cable to hook into the Ecu.
And for bov placement everyone has a different theory of where to put it.
I like to put it as close to the turbo I can. Charge pipe. Because all the air can rush back to the bov and escape before it reaches the turbo so there is minimum to no comspressor surge. If its close to the throttle body the air can escape faster but it leaves all the left air between the bov and turbo which rushes back to the turbo causing surge.
I say right after the turbo.
Yeah thats where mine is located too. I thought the same way you did. Drop the pressure as fast as possible as close to the turbo as you can.
I cant log the car. my attempts to find a consult that logs for an OBD1 car failed. not that I looked hard.
There should be some around. They definitely are not cheap. But it’s worth it and makes it much easier to find out what could be wrong. I’m not sure if you stated or not but what is the Ecu tuned for? Injector size, maf?
its your basic setup with a t25 turbo, n60 maf, Sr injectors.
I still have to find some time to check all the injectors.
Yea. I wouldn’t boost it at all until you figure out why it’s not getting fuel. Have u gotten a fpr (fuel pressure regulator?)
Before I boosted this engine it was running NA and running very nicely. Not one problem other then a slight rattle in the timing chain and I have a replacement chain too. I didnt even have the common RPM drop when you push the clutch in. It was one of the nicest running KAs around. The intake that was fully taken apart and cleaned, good compression on all 4 cylinders.
No regulator. other then stock. I will put a volt meeter to the injectors tonight and test the injectors on friday. See what i can come up with. I can always plug in the old NA injectors and retest it.
So found out why it was stalling. A small plug connected to the ignition coil it happened to wiggle lose. Reconnected it and tested all cylinders and shes running again. Will need to take this thing to a shop still to have it checked out.