whats going on???
I have a s14 KA24 turbo and i want to go and get a tune up done …
Do u guys recommend a good place in around the GTA …
much appreciated !!!
How come you can’t do it yourself? Tune ups are pretty basic shit. If you have a turbo ka, its pretty much prerequisite knowledge to run a motor setup like that.
do you mean getting it professionally tuned?
Canadian tire.
what do you want a ecu tune?
drive it into a lake. minimum speed of 160km/h +
claim it stolen.
start fresh.
hope you did your tune up by then. lololol
ME SO SMART lolololololol
yah i was thinking professionally tuned …
Is your ecu chipped or do you have a standalone unit? Or are you using safc to “tune” it.
THE ECU IS CHIPPED …
Easy on the caps lock. Do you know what chip it has in it? Jim wolfe, nistune etc.
probably some childish piggy back.
be a man. go haltech.
^ Yes, because we all have thousands to drop on a standalone. Though, something like Nistune or one of the other opensource ones like MS would be an affordable option, I suppose. But tuning isn’t cheap.
I’m feeling nice, so I’m going to actually be helpful.
OP, sounds like you have a LOT of reading to do. If you just got the car, do a tune up on it first. Plugs, cap, rotor, wires. Do an oil change. Hell, flush the coolant. Get everything fresh and to a baseline. If your car has a chipped ECU, you should find out what chip is in it, what it’s supposed to do and why.
If it’s got an SAFC, your best bet is to get rid of it. You don’t need it and it’s a bandaid solution.
Start reading around here and get as much info as you can, get some general car knowledge, and start poking around. This is the perfect cheap, and easy to work on type of vehicle for you to start learning some mechanical skills on. Doing the above mentioned tune-up is a good way to get familiar with the engine bay and your car. Plus it gets you to a known baseline to help with trouble shooting problems that come up. Also, expect a lot of flack for ‘stupid questions’. It’s the internet, and the average age of intelect on here seems to be about 14 years old. When an old-timer gives you advice though, listen. Chances are we actually know what the fuck we’re talking about.
Also, what is your reasoning for thinking it needs to be professionally tuned? Is it not running right? Is it down on power? Does it stall? Do you think the PO didn’t get the most he could safely get out of his chipped ECU? What’s your logic behind thinking something needs to be done? It might help us if you told us who’s car you bought, it’s a pretty small community, people probably have an idea of the history of this car.
Good luck.
hey thanks a lot for you info and help. well so far i have done an oil change w/ castron syntec. i have ordered in new sparkplugs cables as well as new fule filter…
i was reading around and since i have a MAF could it be the sensor ? how about the IAC unit?
it is very shaky at idle and i have no idea y that may be …
also i dont have a SAFC … i am runnin 10psi on a recirculating system…
again thanks a lot for the input…
Honestly, try and get a hold of someone in your area willing to take a look at it. Someone with experience with KA-T set ups.
Search around and see what guys are using for a plug gap and find out if they’re even using stock plugs still. Something tells me most guys will have gone at least one heat range colder. I ran an SR, so I have no first hand experience on a KA-T.
Your “shaking at idle” could be anything from cams, and that’s just how it idles, to an actual problem. I’m going to give you a list of questions to answer, find the answers to all of them before you try and get more help:
What plugs should you be running, and what plug gap? (hint: it’s likely not stock)
Are there any sketchy looking wiring jobs? (check the wiring to the MAF, check the wiring to the dizzy, etc)
What ECU are you running? (what chip, stand alone, this is something you need to know. Contact the PO if you’re not sure)
Have you looked at your plugs that are in there now? Are they black, brown, wet, dry, what do they look like?
Make sure there aren’t any exhaust or boost leaks.
Is it idling low, or does it sound/seem like it’s missing? It should be idling around 7-900RPM, I personally like it closer to 800-1000. If it’s idling around 400RPM, that’s different than if it’s just missing at idle.
I don’t live anywhere near the GTA, so I can’t help you in person, but I’m certain if you ask around, put a WELL WORDED and intelligent sounding request in the Lend a Hand forum, someone will help you out. Be respectful. That includes making your posts legible, with complete thoughts. Your current posting style makes you sound a little like an ADHD 12 year old.
What plugs should you be running, and what plug gap? (hint: it’s likely not stock)
Im running NGK - BKR 7 — gap anywhere from 3.8 to 2.8
Are there any sketchy looking wiring jobs? (check the wiring to the MAF, check the wiring to the dizzy, etc)
wiring looks good as far as I can see.
What ECU are you running? (what chip, stand alone, this is something you need to know. Contact the PO if you’re not sure)
Enthalpy tuned
Have you looked at your plugs that are in there now? Yes they look ok but i have new ones in the mail should be getting them by next week.
Make sure there aren’t any exhaust or boost leaks. ------ I have a small exhaust manifold leak
Omw to change it next week
Is it idling low, or does it sound/seem like it’s missing? It should be idling around 7-900RPM, I personally like it closer to 800-1000. If it’s idling around 400RPM, that’s different than if it’s just missing at idle.
When cold it idles at about 1200 not shaky. Once warmed up its stays at 1000RPM but I get the shakiness. So plan is next week im gonna have the manifold plugs cables done and I will keep posting.
Thanks a lot for your help.
Well, the exhaust mani leak is a problem.
Idle sounds like it’s ok, with the exception of the shakiness. Make sure all your plugs are gapped the same, I’m not sure what most guys are running, 2.8 sounds pretty good, the big gap plug(s) might be a part of your shaking idle. Make sure your grounds are all good. Do the “big 3” (Alt to battery, battery to starter, and engine to chassis ground). I’m also not sure why you had to mail-order your plugs, you should be running NGK coppers, they’re like $2/each at Canadian Tire. They’re the go-to plug for our engines. They work, and they’re dirty cheap. Most “fancy” plugs are just mareting gimmicks. Don’t get multi-electrode plugs, they’re bullshit and don’t work as well as a single electrode plug.
Your Enthalpy chip is probably good to go once you get your shaking idle and exhaust leak fixed.
What do you mean “manifold plugs cables” are you talking about your MAF wiring, etc? If it looks fine, don’t touch it.
Did it start idling stupid after you owned it or was it like that when you bought it? If it’s a developed symptom it’s likely to be a bad part, or leak or something mechanical rather than sensor wiring.
Before you do anything wild and crazy, just change your plugs (gap them all the same), fix the exhaust manifold leak (did something come loose or did you blow a gasket out?) See what happens from there. If it’s something simple, there’s no point in throwing parts and useless work at it. Start with the basics.
you got stock engine mounts?
Thanks a lot for you help again. I’m planning on getting those two fixed up this week or so and I will keep posting.
The manifold itself is broken, and yes i have stock engine mounts.
Thanks again
Definately get which ever manifold you’re referring to repaired or replaced.