i know most of you crossovers don’t know me, nearly everyone that was on shift before does.
consequentially they don’t like me. ask them about me. maybe you’ll laugh.
oh well.
anyway, I’m digging through nicoclub’s dumpsters a few hours ago, came across the idea to make my still fucking ugly hardbody not as hideously slow. 120(ish)whp new, so probably 3 whp now.
i don’t want or need something that makes +9000 whp, but floorboarding it to pass tractor trailers is sad.
250-300 seems safe on the stock bottom end, according to KA-T.org
nitrous would be cool, easy and comparitively cheap but it’s a one shot at a time till the bottle’s empty deal.
i don’t think single cam KA superchargers exist.
so a single snail seems the way to go if i were to keep the KA.
but it looks like for the price of a turbo, plumbing, piping, manifold, controllers etc. i could swap something else in
RB20s with trans are on Japan Star for $1300 but RB25s are only 600 more with ECU and assorted stuff.
i would say LS based motor but i think it would just get really overpowered really fast.
anyway, i don’t know what the fuck i’m doing, i would really like someone else’s opinion
and the FUCK is up with new format, new owner and the goddamn canadians!
Ls swap it ! Easier , far more parts that are cheaper than jap shit . ESP japanstar junk ass motors . A 4.8 with a auto out of a 00 up silverado 2wd can be had for prolly a grand out of a junkyard with Harrness etc .that will get ya 300 ish and a lot of reliable fun
If youre gonna spend that kind of money why not scrap the POS Nissan and buy a decent vehicle? When youre done swapping this POS youre gonna have a lot of money tied up in a truck that’s worth $250 in scrap.
Would you rather I buy a geo metro and mid mount an ls in the rear seats?
This is just like a v8 s10, the only difference is the badge on the hood and number of cylinders
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I thought alot about that. My goal isnt to have a 95/5 weight distribution and just destroy the fuck out of eber set of tires it sees.
I want more power but I still want the ability to really beat the fuck out of it and not just shred tires on corner entry.
wouldn’t a reliable car to get back and forth to work in be a more logical choice though?
You’ve said it a million times that this truck is a piece of shit so I don’t get why you’d put money into it. If I remember right its rusty and spray painted.
If the truck was in good condition and not falling apart swapping a different motor might be worthwhile but in this case it wouldn’t make much sense.
For what youre gonna put into this thing you can pick up a '90’s Mustang or Camaro or even some kind of import if that’s what you want and have a much better platform to work with.
comparitively, this is easily one of the cleanest near stock hardbodies in the state, especially considering the milage. the only rust is the inside of the bed which can always be cut out and replaced or just replace the bed. it was spray painted for a month or so, now it’s battleship gray but not primer. other then needing to replace the fenders and some suspension bushings it’s not really falling apart.
to make ~200 whp with this is probably going to be a $800 ebay turbo kit plus a set of tires on wheels i already have, so i’m estimating ~$1k for at least twice the power it has now, on probably 5-6 PSI.
Or, like i want to in the future, i could spend $1500 minimum on a fox GT, which would probably have the piss beaten out of it, being in the same suspension situation my truck is now.
the ranger is a story far too long to bother typing on my phone. bottom line is it’ll be a miracle to see it finished anytime within the next 10 years or so.
it was a 3L v6 anyway.
the bed sides, rockers, cab corners and frame are mint. 99% of hardbodies are for sale because of 2 reasons. 1) frame rotted out or 2) body rotted away.
i need a set of fenders which i’ll be picking up from a friend in a month or so, and i have to replace the bed floor or the whole bed. the bed floor can be replaced with some thick sheet steel and some trailer fenders from tractor supply.
Breh, I appreciate your motivation, and more power to you (hiyo!) if you go this route. But forums like this are littered with aborted Aleros, tacoed Three Hundreds, and hundreds of other cool sounding projects undone by good intentions and minimal resources. Of course you dont want to hear anyone you can’t or won’t do this…you’re young and invincible and F the haters who conform to what THEY want you to do, maaaaan.
If you must, do some research on homemade turbo kits. But your best bet would be to find one of those rotted Hardbodies or Pathfinders with the V6 and swap everything. Thats plenty of motor in a 2wd shortbed.
I was present but not involved in the alero execution.
I’m not saying "oh yeah im gonna be so cool and definitely make ten billion hp and all that shit. I don’t have a ton of money, or a ton of skill.
The v6 hardbody/pathfinder is a VG series, I have a friend putting a turbo vg from a z31 300zx into his hardbody. He knows the vg as well as anyone, that was of course his first suggestion.
Honestly I’ll never say I know what im doing and don’t want other people’s opinions or ideas. That’s exactly the response I was hoping for by putting this thread up. Not to say I didn’t want to rb it and sound awesome, I wanted “hey, maybe consider doing x instead of z”
Dude i put all the information on paper for you a while back.
Scratch your turbo kit idea clear off the radar. it will never run. You dont have the expierence or knowhow, no offense i know your learning but failing and giving up 300 hrs into messing with it will put a hault to that learning part real quick like. Your $800 turbo kit doesnt have fueling, injectors, pump, managment/tuning, (assuming you have a later model truck with fuel injection) oil feed and return stuff, coolant lines for the turbo too, … and its utter junk. if the turbo spins up and makes 12psi it wont last an oil change, one customer put one on a saabi built a downpipe for and it didnt even make it 5 miles and it siezed up from being buit like shit. The manifolds are junk, wg is junk, bov is junk… Not to mention you put alot more faith into that stock motor than it will actually hold… IF it was tuned safe which it wont be unless you are paying someone to tune it, which with ebay junk and first time installer put on they probably wont even take on for fear of blowing it up, chasing problems to even get it to run/tune, etc.
Dont assume putting a iron block V8 into the truck will make it face plant with 95-5% weight transfer. I know your kidding on the figures but your still out in left field.
Put 75lb stiffer springs on the front if you really care. If you think it will just spin around like its on ice, get caltracs for the back and get better tires than walmart take offs.
What year is this thing? If its pre 94 your a retard for not putting a $300 4.8l into it. If you were more than $1k deep into the entire swap i would be amazed. Everything for the 4.8 is dirt cheap and at Napa waiting for you to break shit. less wiring than fingers on your hands to make it run. the engine and 4l60e run on he shop floor with a battery and a few wires. It makes almost dead nuts your power goals stock, 270hp off the top of my head.
WAY too many “i wanna turbo my xxxx” + “cheap” + “ebay hardware” + inexpierence = giant waste of money and it will never be good, if it even runs. I have watched people/customers/friends walk around that block a hundred times.