Well, friend is in a pickle, and I’m no domestic guy by any means. Truck in question is an 04 Silverado 1500, with a skyjacker lift kit. Long story short, front CV shaft boots crapped out. They updated the axles and are now larger in diameter and will not fit into the lift spindles, few hours of screwing around on a WW2 turret lathe, and they have been machine to fit. Boot kits are not available for the old style axles or we wouldn’t have been in that situation. Next issue is now the new axles are binding… due to the angle that they are not capable of. Skyjacker’s tech dept didn’t even realize the axles have changed… so they’re clueless. Anyone have any clues or fixes?
I’d make sure you have the right axles first…
Not to be a dick but dont lift ifs truck… but you can try decranking the torsion bars, umm that is if they have torsions to lower it some or is it a spring up front i dont even know anymore.
GM updated the axles Sobo, the outter cups are thicker now, so the spindle opening had to be machine slightly to allow it to fit and turn. Trust me… we’ve researched it plenty, rebuilt originals are not available anymore. The problem lies with a limited range of articulation from the inner plunge joint with the new design. Skyjacker completely redesigned the kit, shifting the inner IFS axle and making the two spacers equal instead of offset like what the guy has, this makes the newer axles “work” to some extent. It’s a mall crawler, and he knows it. RCV axles ordered, have to measure for custom length applications. big $$$, stupid IFS lifts… High angle slip shaft CV axles are almost required from what we’ve researched.
o god that look horrible do they sell a drop for the center chunk?
might as well do a body lift if you’re going to drop the center chunk… 6" lift on an IFS truck is absolutely stupid, in every way.
so, if the new axles dont fit in the sl hub, how would they fit in the stock one? or does the sl hub have more extrusions for strength? if it dosent go offroad, just unhook the axles. problem solved. theres a kid out here runnin around with no driveshaft going to the front axle in his lifted c10, lol.
seriously though, soften up the torsion bars. that angle is BAD. these are supposed to be within the acceptable range gm specifies. the “z” height. that one not having a drop bracket for the front case is never going to be within acceptable range so the truck will always be killing front end components. hope hes got cash and time to keep fixing it.
the s-series trucks even get a drop bracket for the front case, im surprised the fullsize dosent. i replaced almost the entire front end on my old zr2 and that was stock. never again. unless they come out with a better designed ifs, my next truck that is 4x4 will be an older one with a solid axle.
Seems like the axle shaft should be longer.
Idk if this is possible either, but I’ve seen pictures where a guy tried installing a axle into an IRS 4x4 quad and it kinda looked like what you have going on. Some how one end got over rotated and created an improper angle.
that’s not my picture, the truck in question has all the mounts cut off the frame, and the center chunk is lowered on a SJ subframe, and the axles are STILL at a stupid angle… the center section is offset, two different axle lengths had to be ordered, and $1k in axles later, he’ll be able to drive it.
as far as the knuckles, and the joints fitting, GM updated the joints and made them thicker, the opening was designed for the old joint, the original spindles had enough clearance, we had to have the opening clearanced ~.250" in diameter, almost .4" deep for where the axle goes through. nothing big, but when tight, the wheel wouldn’t turn. And then when we fixed that the damn joints were bound. Glad I’m not wrenching on it, or I’da lit it on fire. customer is thrilled with skyjacker. Jimmy Deans won’t even use their stuff anymore b/c of issues.
Here’s my random thought/idea. Why couldnt a steering knuckle be manufactured such that the lower mount point with the lower ball joint be a taller cylindrical shape. And a ball joint that has a taller stud. If the cylindrical part of the steering knuckle was strong enough, you could correct the CV angle. Only problem is, one would need a massive rim. I’m thinking maybe making the cylindrical shape about 3" tall? Just throwing out an idea…
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Basically saying split the steering knuckle lift characteristics into two equals halves.