just the fronts are plug and play
The rear rotors are the same, haven’t checked caliper or pad numbers though.
the rears are the same size as a stock 240
you sure about that? I could of swore a 180sx setup was only an altima rotor but a maxima pad + caliper. not all altima parts ?
and as for the Z32 setup, those can clear some 15’’ Rims (even the stockers) the other 15’’ Rims that they wont clear just require a 5mm spacer usually “nothing big”
The part numbers are the same. I kinda mentioned that. 
It’s more the price than anything. I think I might try the Q45 caliper on an Altima rotor. Some say it won’t work, but I can find any records of people actually trying it. The Q45 rotor is 28mm while the Altima rotor is 23mm. 5mm isn’t a lot of difference that a floating caliper can’t account for.
I wonder how many low spots actually exist?
Tons.
Smoothing out driver’s rocker panel.
Close yet? Getting there.
Driver’s side again.
Closed up.
I had to close up early today because I ran out of lightweight filler (Bondo) to smooth out the rest of the little spots. Oh well, it can wait for another day.
More work on the rocker.
I got a tiny bit more to do, but it’s almost all done. Jesus, rocker panels suck.
Update involving a motor? Hot Damn!
First off, boring rocker panel work.
Wheel well work.
Sealing in patch on passenger side.
Whoa? What is the forklift doing? Dare I work on the engine? I dare.
Building the stand.
Went to the local Fastenal (awesome nut and bolt store. I know where I’m getting my motor mount bolt.) and picked up some Grade 8 bolts and nuts to hold the engine on the stand.
All tied up and ready to lift.
The god damn starter died in the forklift. I could hear how it wasn’t extending and grabbing the flywheel, but rather just spinning. Shit.
So, I decided to do some more body work. Whilst sanding, I accidently dropped the can of primer and punctured a hole in it. Dammit.
Moved outside. Still spraying.
I decided to antagonize Mr. Miller some more.
And one for you guys.
After closing the hatch, I really started to see things come together (hatch is being replaced, too rotted to work with). I’m getting all excited about the project again. Tis’ a chore no more.
I wanted to put the engine on the stand because I noticed that it seemed really clean once the dirt was removed. It looks as if the head and block were re-painted a high-temp black, which I hope means that they were apart and new interals and porting were done. Odds are they just painted it inside the car.
what did you pay for the engine stand? I just picked up a couple used ones…
$40.
I tore into the motor today. I guess my hopes of having a slightly modified motor is gone.
Hanging out.
On the stand.
Grabbed some baggies to label and store bolts and platic wrap to wrap up the head when it’s apart.
I choose you to come off first, Mr. Throttle Body.
God damn. That’s an awkward as hell nut to get off.
Be gone foul 40mm throttle body.
Goodbye upper intake manifold! (Was hoping the lower would be ported. It was not.)
And farewell to you lower intake.
You’re next, crappy turbo.
The coolant line that did the turbo in. See the little crack? That caused coolant to no longer enter the turbo and to spew everywhere.
And the exhaust manifold is off.
Fucked turbo? Check. I can probably take off the impeller and housing and sell it to MX-6 GT Turbo guys for upgrade.
Exhaust ports.
Pulled the plugs - they all look good. Nothing too serious to worry about.
Closed up for the day.
Tommorow I’m going to pull the head and see how things look from there. If the block is all right, then I’m going to start sourcing out some good performance parts for it.
Rebuild, eh? I wasn’t even thinking about doing that.
I owned a Merkur. I know all about them forums - they rock.
Time for the teardown. This is an update for yesterday (I was too tired to post).
Valve cover off. Damn, it looks brand new.
The head. Nice and clean.
Goodbye alternator.
Timing cover off.
SOOO clean. Damn, I thought things were doing to be worse. Head bolts all loose.
Head bolts vs. 1/2 Drive Socket wrench. Big bolts.
OH SNAP! Timing belt is gone. Good old non-interference.
Oh, the first three look good.
Oh shit. Cylinder #4 was crap.
The head.
Cyl #4.
Cyl #3
Cyl #2
Cyl #1
Well there’s your problem right there. A bee in Cyl #2.
I guess there was still a bit of oil left in the engine.
Coolant and oil in the pan. I’m guessing the headgasket failed in #4 as there was a slight crack in the gasket.
The end for today.
Packed up. Good old cling wrap will keep crap out of the cylinders for the night.
Today’s work.
The start.
Oil pump and pickup removed.
Rod cap #1 removed.
The rest removed.
Crank caps removed.
Everything bagged and tagged.
Crank out.
Hello pistons.
Crank all wrapped up. I don’t want any damaged too it as it’s going back in.
Pistons out.
The bad piston (#4).
The block.
The bad cylinder.
Water pump removed.
Now you see the dizzy.
Now you don’t.
Pulling the dizzy crank gear.
Dizzy gear and shaft out.
The almost clean block.
Weird ass thing. It has to do with the PCV system. I suspect it will be hard to find a replacement/replace.
Engine stripped.
Body work!
Bagged, tagged, and removed parts.
Closed up for the day.
The block is going to be bored over 30 over to clear out that bad spot on cylinder #4. Then I’ll be picking up some Crower Sportsman rods, ARP bolts, Pistons (probably Weisco or Diamond depending on reviews on TurboFord), A237 Cam (a little more performance) or just a Ranger Roller cam (better than stock), some home head porting, and a few other things.
if that 240 ever runs with this engine, than i’ll be impressed, i cant wait to see the wiring setup 8)
The wiring is pretty straight forward. The gauges will have to be custom made (VDO or something along those lines) since the T5 (tranny) uses a mechanical drive rather than an electronic setup (ala the 240).
Also, you’re not impressed that I stuck with it so far?
^ I know I am 
Most the bits out.
Bottom of head.
Intake Port #1
Intake Port #2 and #3
Intake Port #3 and #4
#1
#2
#3
#4
More bits coming out.
So god damn clean.
The wiring is pretty straight forward. The gauges will have to be custom made (VDO or something along those lines) since the T5 (tranny) uses a mechanical drive rather than an electronic setup (ala the 240).
Also, you’re not impressed that I stuck with it so far? :P[/quote]
what about the z31 300zx. they have a t5 in the early turbo cars with a speedo pinion and cable but it can be exchanged with the electronic one from the later cars I think…
on a similar topic if you could figure out how to run/translate the cas signal off the ford engine you could use pretty much any 4cyl engine management, possibly even a stock nissan one, maybe an sr, maybe a ka, doesn’t matter much what you end up with, because matching functioning guages will be available for it for that factoy look
why would cylinder 4 be more rusted than the others?
The head gasket was blown on that cylinder and sat for a while (water in the cylinder).
As for the engine management, I’ll be using just a stardard Ford 16-bit ECU system (LA3, for those who care).
The gauges are going to be the pain in the ass part. I’m using the OEM sending unit in the fuel cell, so I can retain a proper fuel gauge.
I’m not sure how everything is going together. I’ll fly from the seat of my pants and deal with the problem when I get there.
EDIT: Worse case senario, I just bring a GPS along and record what RPM in which gear = what speed.