sometimes my car starts and sometimes i have to sit there and keep trying for awhile and sometimes when i start it i have to put a lil gas to keep it from dieing. is it cause of my fuel injector? or electrical problem…
vacuum leak or timing. KA’s are touchy on vacuum leaks and timing.
i think timing is good how do i check a vaccum leak ?it happened before i changed all my seals in my injectors and no gas was leaking out now and it got worst with the starting problem
u have to check all your vacuum hoses for cracks or if they are disconnected.
This could also be caused by many other things a simple tuneup can fix. Does the car run rough on idle once you get it started?
check your fuel pump.
sit in the car and turn it into the accessory on position and listen for the fuel pump. (fuel pump is in the trunk area) if you don’t hear it at all, your pump is dead. If it’s really loud, pump is going to die.
good luck.
it runs rough once i get it started and then if i turn of the car it is a mission to get it started agian
Check the distibuter cap and rotor I mean removing the cap, sand down any corrosion or film that may have built up… but really just replace it, because chances are that moisture is getting in it… let me guess, it didn’t start in the morning after a moist night? if so… it may happen again… so really start with the distributer cap and rotor.
might as well change the spark plugs and wires while yur at it… sounds like it ain’t starting because your spark isn’t clean…
Good Luck!
Mike.
yea thats what i was thinking too
salamat (thanks) eh
jon
Anytime mang…
My car was hard to start once and it turned up to be the head temperature sensor, check its resistance because if it’s not right its gonna send the wrong temperature information to the computer, and the computer wont send enough fuel to start the car, specially in cold weather./
My guess would be the starter is going but that is worse case scenario. This actually happened to me a month ago. I replaced the plugs, wires and cleaned all connections but it sounds like the starter I am pretty sure you can get it tested. As well in a good scenario it could also be as simple as a grounding problem. Hope that helps.
Cheers
Bryce
problem solved
it was the fuel pump but my starter is gonna be next on the replace list
thnxs guys for the help^^
yea, I had the exact same problem with my beater, It’s sitting in the shop now. I’m not sure what the problem is, but it has something to do with the starter. I’ll let you guys know in a few days when I get it back.
u guys might also wanna check your ignition switch.
Okay, so after reading all the answers to this thread. I can single out the probable causes, but the rest are simply put “garbage” replies.
Such as:
Vacuum Leaks (I have a whole new thread about this one because it makes me so angry)
Bad starter (since the car wouldn’t crank at all)
Ignition Switch (since the car wouldn’t even BEGIN to crank, however, i can see why you came up with the answer)
Timing (wow. guys, i’ve been running 15 degrees advanced for the past year, all of the sudden it jumped to RETARD 30!!!) - this answer is completely idiotic, because the car would not SOMETIMES start, it would either NEVER start, or ALWAYS start (but have hard time)
All the other posts that had to do something with air/fuel/spark/temp sensor are actually useful.
People, please think logically and refrain from saying completely idiotic things, i cannot take it anymore!
Actually, timing is a really good reason. My car is coming back from the shop tonight, and I had a talk with the mechanic. I had trouble with cold starts, and now he fixed it. He said the problem was the timing. On cold days, it got the ECU confused so it would just turn off, and I would have to try multiple times, to get the car to slightly warm up. So the timing messed up the sensor and just got the car to start, and turn off after a few seconds.
Polak, your post makes absolutely no sense, did your mechanic mention what code the ECU threw before it shut down itself completely? Maybe you should listen to your FSM more and to your mechanic less.
If what you are saying is that you had a bad sensor, then timing really doesn’t have anything to do with it. Please explain to me, how timing changes overtime, if the car has been running properly all along.
I mean if the ECU had a knock sensor and would retard the timing when it sees knock, but on a start up, there isn’t actually knock readings taking place.
damn pavel, why so anal. the only way i know to check an ignition switch, is to replace it (unless u see corroded or damaged wires).
the symtoms he explained in his post, sounds like similiar symtoms of a bad ignition switch. i dunno, maybe nissan updated thier ignition switches like honda did, but i never pulled mine out, so i can’t give a definte answer.
it was just a suggestion, next time use some lube if you’re gonna go crawlin up my A55!!!
lol, i love you.
however, when the ignition switch is screwed, the engine won’t crank, I had that problem in my first car - accord. His car did crank, but please dont take offense, I was just getting really pissed at all the ignorant posts.
I don’t even know why I try to educate people, I should just post on Sequence garage forums more, they are more useful technically and people actually do some research before replying.
oh and btw, how does astroglide sound?