SR Problems: Turns over won't start.

So it seems as though it will try and start, but won’t catch, then it just keeps turning over… When I pull the plugs they’re SOAKED, so I know that it’s getting flooded, but I can’t figure out why, and I can’t get it to start no matter what…

Anyone with ideas/suggestions? I’ll update this thread as I think of more information. It’s getting fuel (obviously), and it’s getting spark. Timing is correct… For all intents and purposes it should be starting. I think it’s just flooding out and that’s why it won’t run, but I don’t understand why. Car was running fine before a headgasket swap, and I’ve had nothing but headaches getting it running again since then.

Did you check your compression after the headgasket? If it didn’t seal, you have no/low compression.

^^^^^^ right on.

but if ur compression is fine just double check that everything is good in the block.

cause technicly if fuel is going in and ur getting spark then the fuel should be exploding leading to no flooding… double check spark and timing just to be safe. try retarding the timing by 1 to see if its firing it off at the right time… might be too soon.

Bump this shit.

Somebody help this guy!

I know the spark timing is spot on, but I’ll double check the valve timing. It should be good as well, but who knows… I’ll check compression, but I would think it should still run, no? Besides, I don’t really see how that explains the flooding… :S

low or no compression will cause flooding even if the car doesnt start the injectors will still expell fuel when turning it over. having no compression will cause the air fuel mixture; not to ignite leaving unburned fuel in the cylinders

Pete, rip off the head and check the HG… maybe you installed it wrong.

According to the poster aboce me, this could have caused your low compression issues.

Although I don’t know how you could install a HG improperly…

WHAT?

no dont pull the head off

compression test first

if compression is low it could mean valve timing is off

re-set valve timing and then re-set cas timing

then check for fuel and spark

make sure fuel lines are on correctly (return comes from FPR)

make sure you have the correct amount of fuel, too much too little will cause the same symptoms

clean the plugs before trying again

and as soon as its running do an oil change as the oil may have a high fuel content in it now

if still no luck repost

agreed listen to sasha dont do anything rash like ripping the head off untill you have checked everything also if the H.G is installed wrong you will most likely have coolant leakage either in the clyinders or around the head mating surface

My bad :slight_smile:

Wasn’t planning on ripping off the head.

There’s no shortage of fuel, and the lines are all on correctly.

Gonna check compression, and valve timing, and confirm CAS timing.

I’ll be home with the car on the 22nd, and staying there until Boxing Day, I plan on getting it running and driving it back. So keep feeding suggestions, I’ll update while I’m there.

Hey,

Just as a check to see if the motor would keep running with the right amount of fuel use vice grip plyers to squeeze the incoming rubber fuel line by the filter. After the motor starts and runs, if it quits because of low fuel you can slacken the vice grips.

You’ll be able to clear out the motor and perhaps get the motor to run a bit.

Its helped me in the past

It’ll make you feel better knowing the motor does run.

Also check a couple of other things that might be wrong that could cause this issue, before ripping the head off

  • Bad MAf
  • Poor spark from low charge on battery
  • Stuck injector ( only if one or 2 injectors are flooding)
  • Bad/wrong coolant sensor
  • Bad FPR

Jeff

  • FPR seems to be working fine
  • MAF is possible
  • new plugs
  • battery was just recharged
  • all 4 cylinders are flooding
  • didn’t change the coolant sensor.

So here’s something fun, my cams are all messed up… When they’re at TDC, and alligned properly as per the dots on the cam gears, the cams are 180* off what they’re supposed to be. IE the Cyl #1 lobes (closest to firewall) are facing inward, where they’re supposed to be facing outward… Will post pics in a few seconds.



And on that note, for the sake of getting my car running, couldn’t I just set the cam timing perfectly with the dots, rotate it 180* and install the CAS, and it will run? I would like to have it correct, but I would rather have it running.

have u checked for spark on all four?

No Varun, I just pulled the valve cover for fun.

Yes I checked for spark on all 4, and fuel. I’ve covered that at least twice now in this thread.

i made the post while u were posting ure pics…
check for spark on all four again with the injectors unplugged after u have set cam timing…leave injectors unplugged and turn the motor over 5-10 times…try to do that till it feels/sounds like it wants to start, then fasten injectors again.

Again, as covered earlier in the thread, I tried that. It sounded/felt like it wanted to start with the injectors plugged in, and with them unplugged, just the issue with it flooding…

Cam timing appears to be correct, except backwards, hence my asking if I could just rotate it 180* to essentially BDC, and install the CAS, so the timing would technically be correct, but the timing marks would be backwards.

And sorry for the bit of attitude in my reply, this is just really frustrating me, and I’ve covered everything that I’ve done at least 2 or 3 times in this thread.

number 1 cylinder is farthest away from the flywheel

see if you can check the ecu for codes.

i’m not saying your cams are not the issue, but people go way too far without checking the codes.

you may not be able to do it really since you cant even get this fucker running, but give it a try on occassion and see if you can pick anything up.

i have found through my multi-year hardship that people jump to conclusions without running the basic check first.

if the ecu yields nothing, listen to Sasha, Varun and dan.