hey i searched i fouund a bunch of mix mached.
i got ngk bkr6e plugs im on about 10psi sr20det what is the best gap for it?
i also have a problem when i come to a stop. my rpm drops to about 400 for about 1 second and then springs back up to about 900/1000 rpm.
because my fraim rail is boxed my downpipe rubbs stuff loose in my exhaust. i noticed when the exhaust starts to leak more it happins. but when i tighten everything down again it stops. ( i also dont have a o2)
I’ve tried everything and the only thing left for me to do is recirculating the bov pressure back to the intake. I’m going to do it when I get the parts right. I’ll let you know the results
I’ve been trying to solve this problem for the longest time and I’ve tried everything…
at first I thought it was the IACV
that sounds about rite. seeing how i dont have anything going back to my intake. nothing at all. just straight dump to atmosphere. but if u do fix the prob. id love to know please keep in touch
Just a guick question the reason you gap plugs is that more of the fuel is lit during the spark right, but having too much gap is bad, Why? will the spark not initiate because of the high pressure during compression or is there another reason, besides the obvious piston clearance.If its because it wont spark, can’t you fix this problem by getting higher voltage coils and your engine will run better too?
so i have a wicked exhaust leak, changed my plugs. and relized now that my bov is leaking. i think i have it all figured out on to why my idle is *****. im waitin on a new bov tomorow to fix the leak and the 2 3" gaskets are comming for the exhaust. i hope IT WORKS!
I had a similar problem when first starting up my sr20de+t. I am running atmos, with an safc. But it would run very rich, and seem to missfire or not fire at all on one cyl.
it turned out to be just the plugs, they were horribly fouled, and the gap was massive. I replaced them with NGK bkr7’s with a 30 gap and every thing works perfectly.