Frame rot is like the worst wiegh to take wieght out of a car. Benny wants to fill it with cement…I vote flamin arrows after I drive it and break it in half.
It cranked…primed for lift off…
Here are pics for oil lines I had saved on my computer.
looks like one goes to the block and the other goes to ???
there should be one feed line and one return line…
yeah i dunno he needed to look at my setup.
it is on the bottom line… is that a t28?
I still don’t get it dude. The bottom of the turbo goes to a tube for the oil drain. The top line off the turbo is your oil feed, it is the small fitting that goes near the front of the block. We saw the diagram on NICO at your buddies house. One of the lines on the side of the turbo goes to your coolant neck near the CPS and the other side of the turbo goes to the fitting between the CPS and the oil fitting. I’m sure once we see Mike’ssr20 engine it will be soo easy.
no t25.
well i’ll see you guys tomorrow.
any news?
Jeremiah thought it would be a great idea to test his fuel system by sucking on the feed line :wtf
Now he’s dead.
figures… I knew it back when I was 16 that Jeremiah would die doing something fucking dumb (inside joke) :ninja :ninja :ninja
so whats the update with the car homie
Yeah his ebay regulator is junk and I think his timing is off so it won’t start. We got the oil/coolant lines figured out though.
looks good sittin in the garage, whatever it is lol
I just want to add this onto my post some everyone on the board I have tasted the gear oil, engine oil, gas (with stabilizer added in for flavor) and radiator fluid of my car. From a food critic stand point that synthetic is the shit. FYI update got a banjo bolt that was need, node light, and more intel on the situation and ready to do battle this week. Also going hook up the downpipe and probable fix the brake line for some easy repairs. It’s hard on these build you have thousand invested don’t want to blow it at the end,
I got this motor good to go but am having problems with the injectors pulses. I also as you have already read I have a bad gauge on a egay FPR. Tried to start no go with back fire.After dissamble and retime my injectors were pulsing on a node light. After timing it the second round, the wires had moved and I lost pulsation on the node light. Tried to turn nothing. The last time i got my injector back on the node light but was flooded and electrically drained. I threw the battery on the charger dissabled and prepared for another day. My plan is to voltage test what is going on with the eletrical on the injectors. Tripple check all gounds but very unlikely, and think about since my clutch is not bleed, to maybe do that and see if the safety neutural is not working.
The injectors are probably ran directly from the ECU. If your CAS isn’t set right it will throw off your injectors and your spark. I don’t understand why you timed it and then the injectors won’t go. I think the neutral safety would disengage the starter.
This is what I would do, check all the power and grounds. Make sure it’s getting solid metal-to-metal connections. Revisit the CAS position/timing thing. Get a new regulator. Even though just the gauge might be bad, you still don’t know where to set the fuel pressure, and I won’t just “turn it up”. The fuel lines that came with that regulator are not the proper high pressure fuel injection hoses and could burst if the pressure is too high. Get the coolant system completed (new radiator ect) and sealed up. There isn’t much else to check, but the whole thing with the car getting power with the key out is pretty weird.
I guess what I don’t understand the most is, last year this car ran correct? I don’t see how you can have so many problems with swapping the same motor back in. Just my $0.02
was wondering the same. everythings there and hooked up. hows all the grounds? it could be somehting so stupid your just looking over quickly.
or he fried the harness
:ohnoes
possible, I didn’t want to mention it.