Ok
so once we get a solid answer this could actually be good to set as a sticky.
What is the process for checking and setting the ignition timing as well as what setting are the best?
if you are taking base timing say if the cas as been removed or what not then pop off the valve cover… line up the cams on the #1 cylinder so the lobes face away from each other (which is now TDC) “2nd knotch from the left on the crank pulley” then stick in the CAS and line up the dots proper… put the cover back on and turn her on
there is a black loop on the end of the Coil Pack Harness which you use to hook up the Timing Light… power/ground to the battery and then check the Pulley… you want 15 degrees so 2nd knotch from the right or 5th from the Left
If I’m wrong or left anything out then please correct me
Which notch represents TDC
2nd from the right or left??
and just say it is at 12DEG for instance, would I notice a difference
TDC is the 2nd notch from the left… -5 TDC 5 10 15 20
if it were @ 12 degrees… just a guess but not the greatest… would probably run better higher up @ like 17 then 12 ? ? ?
I thought you did not want to advance the timing to much on a forced induction motor
I’ve heard of people advancing the timing in the 17 degree area to pass emissions
Whether its a good thing to do I’m not 100% sure… but there is a knock sensor right ? lol… I’m sure it would be somewhat fine @ low rpms outta boost… drive the piss outta it and you may find a problem real quick ?
Hahaha ya, I think ill set her to 15DEG
I was also told by someone to take off the throttle position sensor
should i?
yea let the car warm up fully first and once its @ running temp unplug the TPS and time away
you can set the baseline put the valve cover back on and start it up… cas may be off a tiny bit so once warm just unplug the TPS and hook up the light
Ya, the Cam angle and everything has already been put inm and the car runs good, I just want to make sure the timing is fine tuned
I found it difficult to do the timing with the TPS unplugged. Once I unplugged it the rpms would jump up to 2000 and as far as I can remember timing should be done with rpm at approx 800. I tried to do the timing with the TPS unplugged with the rpm at 2000 but the car ran like garbage. So I just did the timing with the TPS plugged in and the rpm at 800, has run perfect ever since. BTW i just clipped the timing light pickup onto the #1 cylinder just behind the coilpack.
Or you can try this method: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=59684
didnt i tell you there is a pick up @ the end of the coil pack harness ? lil black loop behind the 4th coilpack near the firewall or what not…
that other method does work but is stupid in my opinion when the harness already has a loop for timing etc…
yes i remember you did… but I looked and couldn’t find it… probably hidden or mashed back there somewhere…
all of you genious’s seem to have forgotten the most important part of setting SR timing which is reving the engine past 3000 rpm 4 times or more to lock the timing. without doing this setting the timing is almost impossible.
You don’t have to do any of that lining up the notches on the CAS to do
timing, unless you take the CAS out.
Didn’t we just list the procedures to do timing not too long ago?
I just did a headgasket job by the FSM setting up all my chain link marks and cas with the crank at TDC on compression stroke(2nd mark from the left being O degrees?) SO in the end…with everything aligned the motor started after 2-3 cranks. Is my timing basicly set at 0 Degrees right now? i havnt got my hands on a timing gun yet.
Im just thrown off why everythings aligned at 0 Degrees vs +15 degrees where the car should run at?