ok my apoligies to sbanzer haha, wasnt trying to be a dick like i came off as, i was a bit intoxicated last nite. and i was under the impression that not all s14 sr’s came with t28s but i was wrong, idk wat i was thinkin with the vvt thing, i did know that.
but yea jay sumed it all up nicely
the ca18 was also produced in the uk tho, from 89-94 only having 4 intake ports oppoesed to the 8 in the jdm models
I personally like the KA motor. I’d rather rip out the motor, build it, and put a huge turbo on it. 2.4l would have no problem spooling a huge turbo all on pump gas too.
here’s something to consider. KA motor is cast iron block/aluminum head. Much stronger then an sr20 which is all aluminum block/head. sr20 is fine for 300ish or so hp, but the crankshafts like to take a dump after 350’ish or so horsepower.
Also, the CA motor is a cast iron block. Its strong.
My next project I was considering is a 240sx. I would build the KA engine with a turbo no smaller then a GT35r. But thats just me.
Considering the cost of the sr20, I would just build the engine thats already in the car and make my own turbo kit. 
meh, the ca’s are cool but it expensive to make them fast, parts are hard to come by so you end up having to get custom shit
ka-t or rb is the way to go in my eyes cam on lifter + iron block > rocker arms + aluminum block
thank you. that’s how i always understood it to be. i just wanted to see where the other guys got off claiming one was better than the other.
says who? ive NEVER heard this before… 99% of the high horsepower sr’s are running a factory crank. infact, i don’t even think anyone produces an aftermarket stock replacement crankshaft, unless its for a stroker motor ( 2.2L JUN, Tomei etc)
haha originalism i was wasted when i made that post back to lol. i made it at like 530am when i got home. no offense taken haha
ya dex the only real advantages with the s13 blacktop is that there one or two years never. which we all know isnt always better. them little jap boys tear on them no matter what. when you buy a jdm motor you gotta expect that it was beat on. silvias are like civics over here there all over and everyone has them. drifting extreamly big over there. so even though when you buy a motor and the seller claims only say 30,000km make sure before you buy the motor that they are willing to let you look at the oil, antifreeze, leak down test and compression test. and the sr’s are positivly good up to in the 400hp levels on stock internals. dont forget the full forged bottom ends the sr’s have. plus you get some JDM brownie points with the sr 
im in the middle of a 240 project if you guys would like me to post some pics id be more than happy to. lmk. if anybody has any guestions on sr’s or 240’s email me at [email=“sbanzer123@yahoo.com”]sbanzer123@yahoo.com. i know a real good guy that personally goes to japan for about 2 months of the year and imports probally 80-100 sr motors and clips every year.
word. glad to know all my research wasn’t done in vain. i’m not too interested in an SR. that’s a good heads up from you, but i was thinking that if i ever did a 240 build, i’d do a ka24de-t. for what my realistic obtainable goals would be, that motor is more than sufficient.
i’d actually be more interested in a line on an S13 for cheap in the spring if anything. i don’t really care what the body looks like as long as it’s not too rusty.
post up a project thread, wat chassis and wat motor??
s14 zenki with a s14 sr20 and orginilism it was the one with the t28 and vvt 
lol. here she goes. ill do a little time line type thing from when i first got it until now. i have pics of every single step ive done to this car from day one. if someone wants to see more pics tell me ill email them i dont wanna waste too much bandwidth
trust down pipe um um good
n1 evo
greddy FMIC
yea very interested in hearing how easy this wasand any problems you had. I was originally going to go sr20 in my s12, but dropped to a ca18det for pricing reasons.
the swap is almost bolt for bolt. same tranny and motor mounts/ locations. the only place it gets a litle hairy is the wiring. you have to extent a few wires to accomidate for the left hand drive. and some clips have to be rewired. i think i could do it but im gonna say screw it and have it done by the wiring expert from heavy throttle, that was its done i send it out it comes back turn key. i plug it in and it works. any questions feel free to ask i know quite a bit about theese motors. i have done countless hours of research on all of them. you dont just go out and spend a couple grand on a motor without first researching. id love to answer questions lol it boost my ego haha. and by the way dadtsun s12’s are sexy. i was thinking about putting a redtop in a 280z after this or maybe a vortech z :headbang:
you shouldent have to extend any wires, iv wired my own ca and an sr, both of which started first try. all you have to do is splice in like one connector from ka harness on the ecu side and splice in 2 connectors near the front pass. headlight
no true DIY’er would send out a wiring harness
no theres more too it then you think the ecu is in the passanger side kick panel on both the JDM and the USDM cars. so you have to extend the wires to reach to the other side. and theres about 15 things you need to change. and i dont know well see im still undecided. ill probally end up tackling it myself.
it will reach trust me, ic done 2 swaps without extending anything but the mafs and o2 wiring, which is cake
edit: lol how can you say theres not to it wen im telling you iv done it before
rb26
rb26>*
why would u go through that much trouble to downgrade a 6 cylinder to a 4 cylinder.
rb or bust on that car
cuz ive read it in many places about how do diy and everyone says theres wires to extend
