Okay, I was doing some reasearch and I stumped myself!
First off I want to make a KA24det. I do not not want to buy a kit for it so I am going to peice together a kit.
What parts can I take off a SR20 and use on a KA24det?
I heard rumors that I can use the manifold, downpipe, etc off the sr20 as long as I keep it a t28 or a t25 (top mount).
I also heard that people can use the ecu off a ca18det/sr20det, but I can’t figure out how or why?
In any case, my plan is to go and use a t28 turbo off the z31 300zx, the ic piping and fmic off ebay, and try and use as much of the turbo kit from the sr20 as possible but I am not sure how much and what is interchangable.
then I am going to look for cheap but quality tuning. This means NO SAFC. What other cheap/resonable/easy tuning is available? Can I infact safely use a sr20 ecu if I take the sr20 injectors/turbo? or should I keept he ka24de ecu and get it tuned?
Sorry for all teh questions, I have searched, but some of it gets confusing. If anyone can clairify some of the above questions, that would be great.
BTW, my set-up I want, I want under 300 HP. I was thinking 200-250ish.
ps There is no such a thing as CHEAP BUT QUALITY tuning.
Cheapest thing you can do is burn your own eproms from already created ka-t .bins (which I am doing for my CA this winder, as in I have purchased a EPROM programmer and bunch of chips and already have some .bin files for my CA, KA-T ones are available out there also but no way in hell it will be as good as a proper wideband dyno tune from a person who knows what they are doing, which wont be cheap.
I guess the mid-range for that is Enthalpy or JWT, where you send them your ECU and your mod list, and they will put the eprom chip in the ecu for you and charge you 500$, and it still wouldnt be 100% quality tune because every car has their own issues.
You need a manifold built for the KA. Get one made that places the turbo in the same position, and you can then you the same turbo, downpipe, intercooler and piping. You can use injectors as well.
Bora, if you can burn eproms, isnt it easy to throw in a wideband and tune it yourself like us honda guys? I would read the links but they are blocked at my work. I’ve always been curious about how you can tune a Nissan ECU, I thought maybe the only way was to use a PowerFC or something like that. What programs do you use to edit the program?
From what i’ve been reading for the last few weeks, for nissan we use either Rom Editor or LiveEdit. Which Live Edit is a software made by a person who based it on Rom Editor, which is made by some super cool japanese dude, whose website has been down for a long time now.
I’m not familiar with Hondata system but I guess the same principles as you are saying. You purchase an eprom programmer, download a stock or pre-made (up to you i guess), edit it with the software, burn it with the programmer, open the ecu, desolder the stock ecu, get a socket soldered in there and voila, plug and play.
You can also purchase an eprom emulator, which allows you to control the eprom chip from your laptop, so like you said, you can tune on the go.
Its basic VQ maps and K value calculations but again, I dont know shit about tuning so I am just going to use a map that is already created by someone else. Few people on nicoforums confirmed that it works perfect.
Exactly what we do. There are programs available for every generation/engine, and all you do is open up the map, and it has fields with numbers for fuel and ignition.
If your wideband is telling you you’re running lean just entering boost (1-5psi) at 3000rpm, then you look at the program (its a table, one column for boost, one for RPM range), trace where you need to add fuel, and you edit the number (if its 18, change it to 20, etc). All pretty straightfoward and basic.
You better buy a few (5-10) spare engines, because by the numerous times you used the word “cheäp” in your post you are gonna need them. You want cheap, easy power, buy an SR and turn up the boost to 10 PSI. You will get 200 -220 hp easily, safely, reliabley and cheaper than doing a KA.
I’d use the injectors and probably the downpipe. Test pipe if you are using the right exhaust. Might be able to scrap some of the IC piping, but your best bet is buying a kit off of a place like www.jgstools.com (as well as manifold). ECU is the most vital part to not cheap out on so I would go with JWT and just go with stock sr20 injectors.
Be prepared to have to change your engines like underwear though.
An enthalpy tune is pretty much useless without forking up even more money for the piggyback that you are going to need.
JWT had some kinks awhile ago but from what I’ve heard they have worked them out. I don’t really give a shit, but I was just giving him an example of something he can use.
Stay away from JWT. If you wanna self tune get bikiboard or doughter board(turns your oem ecu into standalone) and visit eccs.hybridka.com for ka ecu info.
Chips only work for ca and sohc ka. sr and dohc ka use 16bit vs 8bit ecuso u need biki etc.There is pleanty tested ka24de bins there and enough info 2 tune your own.And Jeff is righ its just like honda tuning you get on the dyno get ur fuel tuned out than go after timing tables. Only difference nissan is MAF and honda is Map. You do need to know how to adjust your k value and tp min’s and maxes as well as tp scales way before you get on the dyno.And understand ecu fuctions in general. So paying enthalpy or getting AEM /Haltech may be easier, not everyone wants to learn how to hack factory ecu.
Jeff Tylor does run sr ecu on his 550whp ka-t but thats mainly cuz he ditched his sr and already had doughterboard in the sr ecu(sr and ka24de ecu’s are the same). He did have to ghetto rig few things to make it work(sr uses coil packs/ka usses distributor) , basicly not worth your time.There is also few ka-t running dsm ecu, again not the easiest project for a newb and not neccery.
Using sr parts on ka you CAN. But you don’t want 2 . Just think about it sr is 2.0 L and you going to upgrade sr with gt28rs etc But you willing to slap on that tiny t25 on 2.4L engine? T3 is should be your minimum.Exhaust housing on t25 is to restricted and traps 2much heat. And manifold etc is widly available on ebay etc.
Injectors again you can use sr 370cc , but again they are 2 small for sr with upgraded turbo so why would you slap it on ka. Spend 100$ get a set of sidefeeds 550cc+
I would just like to say thank you to nismo for breaking that down for me. He answered all my questions. Now since it has become quite clear to me that I will be needing a t3 set-up, I have a few more questions:
What size T3 would be suitable for a daily driver pushing under 300rwhp?
Will a SRT4 FMIC fit into a 240sx without much modifications?
What type of injectors would you suggest for turboing the KA? Would using a set of WRX STi Injectors work nicely? or is there a more practical solution?
With the tuning you mentioned (to make the ka24de into a standalone, will I need anything else to work with this, or will that be enough?)
Where can I go to learn about tuning this myself, I am a n00b when it comes to tuning, so all the help I can get would be awesome!
Also would my 2.5" straight to muffler work with the turbo set-up? Or would I have to increase it to 3"+?
I already have a walbro fuel pump installed with a 300zx fuel filter for better flowing fuel, will the standalone ecu that you talked about earlier take car of my fuel delivery or will I need something else to take care of this? If so what would you recommend?
Welli am more oh ka24et rather than ka24det guy, so ask nis240 on here he has det .
Better off go use"search" botton on ka-t.org. T3 super 60 seems to be a popolur choice. I have rb20 turbo and i hit 10psi by 2300 rpm but by 5800 rpm it runs out , ka sucks as much as turbo can blow.So yah size your turbo based on what rpm band your wanna have. As well once you get t3 you can always play aroung with sizes cuz most of t3/4 are same flange etc.Read up ka-t or nico there is always turbo sizing topics.
Intercooler, don’t fuck with it get sr20det/ca intercooler kit. Frame on 240 stays the same with ka or sr in it so that s the easiest, just fuck with piping abit where it hooks to the engine.
Tuning …yes biki board is all you need(well egt probe and wideband , maybe some knock alert)WIDEBAND AND EGT most dyno shops have it. Knock sensing you can buy “KNOCK ALERT” ETC.I don’t trust it, rather use det cans or listen to my knock sensor with headphones + amp.
Learning tuning hahah buy books on internal combastion. Attend efi university , hang on efi univercity.com web forums (dyno operators there share their wealth , and there is a few ka-t guys). eccs.hybrid ka is good as well or i gueess any efi tuning book/course will get you on the road(look into honda/dsm tuners , same principle but bigger comunity).
Injectors go nico there is alist of sidefeeds for de.(If you aiming at 250-300whp u can get away with fmu/afpr ).
And i dunno why you would’t go with 3" right off the bet , its like 20$ more than 2.5 exhaust piping. Discount muffler did mine in 3" for 180$.
nismo knows whats up. His websites are on the dot.
anti_ricer: good luck with project and put quite a bit of money on the side or you better have deep pockets for this one. Considering you’ll be doing your own tuning and turbo’ing the KA, you might be poppin’em quiet often.