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[SSmokinn_SS]

@kdubs

One last response from brandon after reading the rest of this thread.

I have nothing to hide and carry no secrets. I talk to the customer as I tune their car 90% of the time. I let them watch, answer all questions and concerns. At no time will I ever say I know everything cause at that point is where I will begin to fail. You learn everyday, something is always different. We all are human and need to step up for what we do at all times

I talked to Andrew about using a timing device for the nitrous system along with the controller he has. It was not on the car when I was there to tune it. I told him the pro’s and con’s of everything and I was only able to work with what I had. The car was brought to the dyno day already setup ready to go as-is. I did not have the time nor supplies to make a timing tricker at that point. It was agreed that the minor amount (read less than 10hp) loss from the timing being taken out at all times was acceptable. Day to day I would like to have seen that car in the 26 degree range for best torque and power but I was also told that when the car was going to be raced it would be on spray so the NA numbers weren’t a true concern. I was at the mercy of the parts and car that was given to me at the time of the dyno. It would have been nice for the car to have a timing device so that the controllers could be adjusted at any point in time so the nitrous hit size could be changed after the tune was done and not locked into a certain amount.

There are areas that visually could be smoothed out however when the car is driving down the road it is not hitting those cells. There is a fine line between pretty and functional. However, more timing ( in certain areas) is not always better. Cruising around large cam’d lsx motors do not like a ton of advance or drivability issues arise. WOT the timing could be advanced for sure in NA situations but there was no controller to take it out when sprayed. Also, when only taking the time to dyno tune a car and not go out testing at the track with plug chops and reading its always best to error slightly on the safe side. Once again we are talking minor amounts of power here and we aren’t racing at a pro stock level. I know everyone strives for the max power available for their parts but im sure we all agree that last 5hp will not make a break a race if it means adding longevity to the combo.

I am 100% fine with my N/A numbers. I mean, I am a cam only LS1 with a 4.10 rear end. In my eyes, 398rwhp on a nitrous tune is pretty damn good. I am stock 241 heads, stock intake manifold and stock pullys. Hell, even just going to true duals I could break 400rwhp N/A how my car sits right now…but like you said, 5-10hp in my eyes isnt too much to worry about.

to give a little insight on how my car runs on the bottle, 2 weeks ago I ran my buddys C6 Z06 that is a H/C procharged car (680rwhp). this is a redline motor sports car as well. We went from a 60 hit and I was on a 150 shot. Up until 130 we were dead nuts even and by 140 he had 1/4 car on me, and then I shut down. That was my first time on the 150 shot, and it felt damn good.

also, I did a plug change a few weeks after you tuned my car (first time I pulled ALL the plugs after tune day) and #8 was completely fouled. I am guessing it fouled during the tune session considering I put new plugs in it, and have been DDing the car on the BR7EF’s and havent fouled one yet. Like I said, it could have fouled before we even had it on the dyno, or during tuning but after the plug change the car seemed to run even better. I am happy with it just as I said above, I was caught in the freak out moment