car is setup for no2 . i told ya to pull the jets so ya knew . i have nuttin to hide man . that and i trapped that without 2nd gear so i lost speed on it man
exactly what Im saying
you have a car that is setup to run nitrous, so why run such a small shot? Hell, Im not setup to run nitrous and Im currently putting a 150 through it…
John im enrolling you into a Grammar class at HVCC in the spring.
cause i dont need to hit it hard for it to work man , it overpowers the car
That LTwon will take a 150 with a stock bottom end. Man up and blow it up! haha
its had well over a 150 hit down its throat , on a 100 hit i have 600 lb ft trq and it only climbs from there on a small tire auto it just breaks out . 100 hit is all it needs till a new susp goes in . oh and its far from stock bottom end lol. fluffy was there when tuned and can attest to the trq numbers
Good for you John. This man knows what supporting mods are. Fix / upgrade the weak areas before throwing more power at it.
rofl:rofl
One last response from brandon after reading the rest of this thread.
I have nothing to hide and carry no secrets. I talk to the customer as I tune their car 90% of the time. I let them watch, answer all questions and concerns. At no time will I ever say I know everything cause at that point is where I will begin to fail. You learn everyday, something is always different. We all are human and need to step up for what we do at all times
I talked to Andrew about using a timing device for the nitrous system along with the controller he has. It was not on the car when I was there to tune it. I told him the pro’s and con’s of everything and I was only able to work with what I had. The car was brought to the dyno day already setup ready to go as-is. I did not have the time nor supplies to make a timing tricker at that point. It was agreed that the minor amount (read less than 10hp) loss from the timing being taken out at all times was acceptable. Day to day I would like to have seen that car in the 26 degree range for best torque and power but I was also told that when the car was going to be raced it would be on spray so the NA numbers weren’t a true concern. I was at the mercy of the parts and car that was given to me at the time of the dyno. It would have been nice for the car to have a timing device so that the controllers could be adjusted at any point in time so the nitrous hit size could be changed after the tune was done and not locked into a certain amount.
There are areas that visually could be smoothed out however when the car is driving down the road it is not hitting those cells. There is a fine line between pretty and functional. However, more timing ( in certain areas) is not always better. Cruising around large cam’d lsx motors do not like a ton of advance or drivability issues arise. WOT the timing could be advanced for sure in NA situations but there was no controller to take it out when sprayed. Also, when only taking the time to dyno tune a car and not go out testing at the track with plug chops and reading its always best to error slightly on the safe side. Once again we are talking minor amounts of power here and we aren’t racing at a pro stock level. I know everyone strives for the max power available for their parts but im sure we all agree that last 5hp will not make a break a race if it means adding longevity to the combo.
Your welcome andrew.
I wanted to step in because I got a call the day the motor in ryan’s car let go and I then asked right away “did they determine the cause” when i was told “it was 1000ft out and just gave up the ghost”. Its always a sinking feeling for a tuner on any level to hear that a customer has an engine or transmission related problem. However, it is worse when the telephone game starts long before a root cause is determined. We all know how hearsay takes off and gets changed. The power of the internet can be feast or famine for anyone. It does not bother me that people want to speak their opinion or that we all have our two cents, just begins to bug me when information is spit out from third or later hand accounts. I always prefer people to speak their mind and fully accept at times the truth hurts but false information hurts worse.
A bad tune can beat the bearing right out that is true. Although with a cast piston like the LSx motors have they will long powder away to nothing before you knock a bearing out. If it were a forged motor I would agree more.
Quoted for truth! But make sure you dont confuse carbon specs with detonation.
In the awd tbss its such a common thing for the rod bearings to spin its sick, especially the #5 and #6. Keeping up with oil changes and putting in a little extra oil is about the only thing you can do for the trucks. There are a few people who have modded the awd pan and done some external oiling tricks but since the front diff goes through the oil pan its not an easy swap. Its hard to spend $2000+ for the oil pan, oil mods and labor and not do anything else performance. Also, people look at you funny when you have an SUV with an accusump on it.
Spitting a rod out of a motor is never a good thing. Its far less common with a cast rod and PM rod like the LSx unless something major went wrong. I have only had 2 customer cars in 9 years spit a stock rod out of an LS motor and both were getting hit with over 400hp worth of nitrous off the footbrake from idle. It was dumb and it was agreed it was no where near safe but we were trying to max out the car the best we could. Both times the rod bent in half then finally snapped. We just went far outside the rhelm of what the stock parts could handle and knew we were on borrowed time everytime.
Motor is still in the truck. Im sure the piston will have some carbon build up like any other DD would. At 80k+ on an ls2 im sure the walls will look fine and at most need a slight hone to take the small ridge off the top of the bore. I do fear the condition of the crank and rod though knowing the heat a spun rod bearing creates. Once again its just a matter of when not if.
Yea I actually told 2 people and one person told the others. I put no blame on the tune at all as it cold have been caused by a multitude of things.
I am 100% fine with my N/A numbers. I mean, I am a cam only LS1 with a 4.10 rear end. In my eyes, 398rwhp on a nitrous tune is pretty damn good. I am stock 241 heads, stock intake manifold and stock pullys. Hell, even just going to true duals I could break 400rwhp N/A how my car sits right now…but like you said, 5-10hp in my eyes isnt too much to worry about.
to give a little insight on how my car runs on the bottle, 2 weeks ago I ran my buddys C6 Z06 that is a H/C procharged car (680rwhp). this is a redline motor sports car as well. We went from a 60 hit and I was on a 150 shot. Up until 130 we were dead nuts even and by 140 he had 1/4 car on me, and then I shut down. That was my first time on the 150 shot, and it felt damn good.
also, I did a plug change a few weeks after you tuned my car (first time I pulled ALL the plugs after tune day) and #8 was completely fouled. I am guessing it fouled during the tune session considering I put new plugs in it, and have been DDing the car on the BR7EF’s and havent fouled one yet. Like I said, it could have fouled before we even had it on the dyno, or during tuning but after the plug change the car seemed to run even better. I am happy with it just as I said above, I was caught in the freak out moment
Yea running the man shot finally
wooo get the race on video? 150 should go high 120’s
no video
but billy was behind us in his truck and jennie was with me.
FWIW, a 680WHP C6 should be trapping mid 130’s. ZR1’s go 130 with 550WHP…
Something doesnt sound right about that vette race… H/C and blower, in a lighter, more aerodynamic car…:ponder
suttin dont sound right attttt allllllllllllllllllllll , just my professional oppinion
its called driver error.
The dude I was racing was Big jay (7’2") and I was out driving him. Shit happens on the streets…not my fault the dude was a gear too high from the hit.
me and billy were laughing because before it even happened, he called me up and was like go up there and race jay…I was like no way dude he will kill me and then he laughs and said yah, but he cant drive…I was like well, that is true lol
yes, but also 600rwhp F-bodys generally run between 129-132mph…
so, given trap speeds are pretty close and your already from a rolling start, it basically comes down to the drivers up until 140+ or so where the gearing and aerodynamics actually begin to show their ugly faces.
I do wish we video taped it tho…but It was my last run on what I had out of my bottle so I couldnt do anything more then 1 quick run.
also, if I recall, the Local 600rwhp ZR1 had trouble breaking 131mph so Im not sure how the 550/130 claim works