I need some direction on the best way to install a steel cable to keep my coilovers slightly compressed (preloaded). Right now with no compression the spring has about a 1/2" of up and down play.
What load test cable? Are the crimp ferrules good enough? Whats the best way to attach them to the coilover/strut tower?
They make clamps for this. I have seen them in a catalog somewhere.check some circle track race car parts sites. i see if i can remember where i saw this
I have independent rear suspension so it shouldnt have much more force than the weight of the wheel ect on it. Id imagine it would be difficult to hold a solid axle setup though, if thats what you have.
Yeah, some people just leave them, if there’s no problems with springs re-seating correctly- but if there’s enough of a gap, things won’t pop back into place correctly and the car will sit incorrectly after going from fully unloaded/in-the-air to loaded.
This is why struts/shocks get shortened/cut- but for those of us who don’t feel like shelling out that much, cable retainers are much cheaper and work well enough for the infrequent times that you have to worry about this.
The most common way this is done in racey land is with nylon straps and heavy D rings, more commonly seen in the offroad community.
Is a tender spring not possible? The goal is to keep the spring seated, not limit travel, correct? It’d be nice to be able to keep your full susp droop considering what the car does. Straps like these are to keep susp arms from hitting each other or the body or something. A tender spring is the correct way to keep the spring seated and will be way less work and hassle. $.02.
These are heavy duty off road ones, but they make thinner ones for cars.
Yes it’s to keep the spring seated. The only reason I’m doing this is because I want to lower the car a tad more and I have maxed out how far I can thread the shock body into the lower mount tube. I just need like a 1/2" more drop :lol
Google ‘suspension limiting strap,’ they’re common.
How about getting a 1" shorter spring? Gives you adjustment back on the threaded coil. As long as you aren’t bottoming out, you won’t have to up the rate. Springs are cheap, like $60-90/pair.
My street car is the opposite, max rear ride height and I still want it to be higher, so I’m getting a taller spring.
Add tenders while it’s apart to solve the seat issue. Make sure the new setup doesn’t bottom out and you’re done. If it does, you need to increase the spring rate (so it will compress less and wont hit the b-stop).