Stuck shock bushing... need ideas

I went to replace the rear springs on my GTO and step 1 was to disconnect the rear shocks from the lower mount. This lowers the control arm enough to get the spring out.

Basically the shock rides on a post, with a rubber bushing sliding over this post and a bolt with a large washer that keeps it from sliding off. The washer isn’t really needed in my case however, because that rubber bushing has fused to the damn post. I tried penetrating oil, a little heat (didn’t want to melt the bushing) and even driving a tiny flat head blade in between the bushing and the post that it rides on. Nothing, still stuck on there. I’m able to get my 3’ pry bar on there and can see the bushing stretching so I know it’s not a force issue. At one point as I was prying on it the shock was starting to slide off the bushing. Knowing that if that happened I’d probably never get the bushing back in the shock I gave up and went to the track day the next day on my old springs.

I’d like to get these off without having to replace the shocks but I have a feeling that the bushing is going to be fucked by the time I get it off there. I thought about removing the top mount but to get the passengers side off you have to lock onto the nut with a pair of vice grips and then turn the shock to loosen the nut because the gas filler makes it impossible to turn a wrench on the top nut. You can’t turn the shock until it’s off the lower mount. FFFUUUUuuuuuuu. Any ideas? I was going to try a ball joint tool but the post is too big in diameter for it to work.

There are a few things you could do but the easiest would be to use an air hammer and chisel bit if you have one and apply force to the inner sleeve. It will probably vibrate right off then. If you are doing your springs I would consider replacing your shocks as well so that there is no worries of leaving potentially damaged parts on the car.

Yeah, I’m pretty sure I’m just going to suck it up and spend the $300 for the matching lovells eliminator shocks that are matched to these springs. KYB gr2’s are only $35 each but I’ve heard they suck. The other cheap option is sensatracs but I know they suck. Once I’m at the “I don’t care if I ruin these” stage I’m sure I can get them off.

The stock ones don’t appear to be sleeved though. Just the rubber bushing sliding right onto the shaft that sticks out of the control arm/hub.

i only carry two things in my tool box, a hammer and a condom… if the hammer doesnt work, fuck it.

http://i.qkme.me/fa2.jpg

Which part are you refering to in this picture of the rear suspension? 15

Hammer and MAPP Gas.

I use them for everything from bushing removal to fender rolling.

Man up.

I have no actual solution to your problem. Heat and hammer. Destory it. Replace broken bits.
Never wonder why so many new parts went into my build. haha.

It would be the end of part #14 (the shock) that doesn’t have any parts in the picture. The rubber bushing end of the shock slides over a shaft that sticks out of #8, assuming 8 is the lower control arm. The only thing that is supposed to hold that shock/bushing in place is a large bolt that passes through the shaft and threads into #8, with a big washer that is larger than the shock and bushing.

Oh fuck, it all just clicked now for me as to what your problem is. Fire and brimstone Jay. Sounds similar to a problem I had with a rear caster bolt on my A4. It fused to the metal sleeve in the shock bushing. I hit it for a good solid 10 minutes before it gave in with a 5lb sledge.

Yep. Just need to decide if I’m going Pedders GSR’s or Lovells Eliminators since the stock shocks will be fuxored by the time I get them off. No sense replacing them with stock the way I drive.

Should do a nice Pedders 1" drop up front and .5" out back.