im in the process of removing some rear subframe bushings on an S13 subframe so i can install solid bushings in. i know their a pain in the ass to remove, but is it possible to get them out without torching the bushing itself since this is done inside my house?
i was thinking of going around the entire cylinder with a sawzall to cut all the rubber out, then cutting the sleeve itself. does that sound about right?
When I did mine (the Z32 subframe is pretty similar to the S13 AFAIK), I had a friend’s portable hydraulic press handy so I used the press to remove the rubber inner part of the bushing. Then I think I used a chisel and a sledge hammer and a couple good wacks and the metal sleeves split nicely. You have to be REALLY careful doing it that way though as you don’t want to damage the subframe obviously.
The solid aluminum subframe bushings have a very tight tolerance so you don’t want to deform the holes in the subframe at all or you’ll have a bitch of a time installing them.
One more comment. Are you sure you want to install solid subframe bushings? The reason I ask is if there is a Energy Suspension polyurethane option (like there is for the Z) and your car is mainly a street car, give that some consideration. With my solid bushings I hear everything the diff is doing now… more drivetrain noise is transmitted into the cabin. Big noise difference.
thanks for the tip inzane. i plan on turning this car into a weekend drift machine in the future which is why i gathered parts. i will be interested in hearing how my diff works though:)
there is tons of you tube vids on how to install them its pretty easy actually…getting the metal sleeves out is kinda a bitch and you must freeze the solid spacers before putting them in so they shrink a little. You can impact them on with a large bolt or do what i did and put a piece of wood over them and smash the shit outa them.
Is your skyline hicas or non? while your at it maybe get a non hicas subframe and some toe arms. Those factory tie rods are ghey for driftin
but the other thing you can do it throw the slotted solid subframe bushings. Just slide them in. And the urethane is probly not what hes looking for because well metal is stronger lol and who doesn’t want their car to plant harder.
i havent had much time to work on removing the bushings out yet. i think im going to sawzall the rubber out, and hopefully just cut through the sleeve and then pound it out.
i seen a few videos on youtube about bushing removal, and only one of them relates to what im doing. only problem is i cant set the rubber on fire without my neighbors freaking out. im gonna install then by screwing them together like they did on that 240sx.
i got this subframe for free courtesy of a kind member on this forum, and its got hicas too, but when the time comes, lil just get a lock bar. right now, i just want to focus on getting the damn metal sleeves out since its a bit late to get slotted collars. the price of the collar and solid bushing is so minimal that it makes more sense to go the extra mile anyways.
subframes that are non-hicas arent exactly common. too bad pick n pull doesnt have S13’s there on a regular basis otherwise id consider it. in comparison to the lock bar price versus subframe price, its not that different, so i can live with it. and that extra mile is like 5 miles since its hard enough as it is to find non-hicas subframes.
In removing the rubber, I found it much easier to use a drill. Use the smallest bit you have and make a few holes around he center cylinder. At which point I had no problem getting it out. (Though I used a one-ton press to get the job done.) And be VERY carefull when cutting the outside sleeve. I was unfortunate enough to be stuck with a full-size hack-saw which was very nerve-wrecking. Had to recheck the cut every few seconds. Also, even when you cut it on one side, it might still be seized pretty badly. I had to cut it on two sides and than chisel it out.
as much as id like to get a non-hicas subframe, at this point in time i dont really have the time or resources to gut the entire hicas system and remove it all.
i just put in aluminum subframe collars, and even with those i can hear everything the 2-way is doing… all that vibration that was muted by the rubber bushings is now transfered straight to the chassis.
kinda sounds cool, but if you’ll be annoyed by it in a daily driver, go poly with no collars!