Stupid Car! HELP!

could be the cas, or the injectors could need cleaning, they may have been contaminated by some crap getting by the filter, actually change the filter too

CAS was the first thing that came to my mind…

maybe if you find a used one somewhere, replace it and see if your car runs fine again.

I’m thinking a few things.

  1. your throttle position sensor might be screwy.
  2. Your timing could be off.
  3. Vacuum leak.
  4. MAF sensor dead.

I’m not familiar with the term ‘CAS’ what does that stand for? Where can I find it? Is it hard to replace? How do I check if my timing is off? I’ve cleaned the MAF, but I will check with a multimeter to make sure its reading the right voltage.

I checked the MAF today with a multimeter, and it checked out just fine. I’ve now replaced the fuel pump and with no luck the problem persists. So I’ve now replaced my fuel pump, fuel filter, and checked the injectors for clogs, and resistance. Everything fuel-wise should be ok. I’ve replaced the coolant sensor. I’ve also cleaned the throttle body, and IAVC with Throttle Body cleaner. It makes me wonder if my spark plugs are firing properly. This problem seems to only happen when the car is more then 4000 RPM. Any other suggestions?

ITS A JUNKER…LOL just f-in around bud, hope some one can help you out .LATER

im pretty sure ka’s dont have a cas. they have a distributor. pull the cap off the distributor and see if there is any dirt in there, if there is oil its pooched… if the contacts are worn try replacing the cap and rotor.

instead of replacing every part of the engine … why dont u see if ur ecu is throwing any codes?

I’ve been trying to avoid this. I’ve read some tutorials online that tell me how to do this, but I’m worried I might f^&% something up. Mostly because I don’t understand the instructions 100%. Is it expensive to have a shop check the codes? Or could someone / does anyone know someone on the forums that could come help do this? I’d like to learn properly how to read them, whether I bring it to a shop or not. I would just prefer to KNOW I’m doing it right, rather then guess based on what the tutorial says.

Thanks again!

its reallly easy to check and i dont see how you could mess up.

Lol well thanks for the motivation. I checked the engine for codes today.
It threw a 34. Which according the the FSM it is the ‘Knock Sensor Circuit’. I called up a friend that works a dealership today, and hes getting a discounted price on a new one today. So I’m waiting on a reply from him. Hopefully I’ll be able to replace it tomorrow or the following day. Then I can erase the codes, and drive it around to see if the problem has disappeared once and for all. If not I guess its back to drawing board.

Does anyone know if a Knock Sensor could be causing my problem? Based on the symptoms I described.

Thanks Alot!

Well heres the update! I picked up a Knock Sensor for 80$ from my friend. I replaced it yesterday. I’ve just checked the codes again today. It came up with a 55 which is means everything is good. But I still had the same problem. The problem seems to be less violent as compared to when it first happened. But it’s still happening.

cas is part of the distributor

for shits and giggles i know these nissans are bad for cats coming apart and half clogging the exhaust which can cause some of those symptoms if theres peices bouncing around in your exhaust, for a possible cleaning of your injectors with out removing them try using lucas upper cylinder lubrictor and injector cleaner just drop in a full bottle into a full tank of gas

i had a similar problem with my race car, two things to consider and there are people on here that know what more about things than me but, electronics dont like heat and heat seams to be an issue. Because it seems pretty consistant at 4-5k rpm it sounds as though its something in the ignition. my race car had a faulty coil and as the night would go on(build heat) the car would bog, but let it sit and it would cool down and not act up. Im not 100% sure on this ingition system but i would test a used coil. or a new one if they are not much money good luck

btw you can clean injectors a little bit, but you have to be careful…

basically rubbing alcohol solution in a plastic bowl, and you poke the pintle straight in with sometihng reasonably soft like a wood kebob skewer, pour alcohol into the injector as well and just poke the pintle in repeatedly, while immersed in the alcohol… do this outside or you’ll be in trouble hehe

it should click every time you poke, and get quieter the cleaner it gets…

if you’re clever you could do this with a 12v source and a way to oscillate power on/off…

but I figured you should know the cheap bastard (with no garage full of electronic junk) version first :slight_smile: