Why would hicas not like a multi link set up? Seriously though. I cant see a difference really.
Peter…i could not come on saturday…VERY long story. sum it up. jail and bail.
dad says you came by this morning…you know that sub is TT? you want the hubs?
Mike…you never called???
Well the reason i am doing it is like peter said …predictability, my car last season was a body roll whore, so for this season im putting efforts to stablize the car… but all last season it never really noticed it …doing anything while i was driving.
BUT everytime i go for an alignment the rear end is WAY off out of whack from all the drifting. so this is another reason i want to keep the car consistantly aligned and not all over the place…as for weight i really dont even care about that part…i keep all seats and anything like that in the car for drift becasue it doesnet really matter…
i found out i do have a hicas pump…
and figured out the differences between having ABS and not abs
if im changeing the diff from the one that i pick up form a 180 subframe and has no abs…i think i have to change my driveshaft to a non abs drive shaft…can anyone confirm this ?
other then that i guess
change PS pump
cap line in resiviour witch i decidced is better to do since i have 2 hicas resiviours around…
…remove all hicas parts…and install new…anything elese you guys can think of to worry about
whats this about spindels too…and i read some people put in a oilcooler to the rear inplace of the hicas …space… because the ps fluid gets hot not sure why but thats what people were saying to do in other posts i read.
same what 87s15 said
Why would hicas not like a multi link set up? Seriously though. I cant see a difference really.
As i’ll be doing this soon since the warm weather is around. I love the hicas, so what problems occur with after market suspension arms
I personally dont know. I just read this off the SPL site while browsing for multilink.
But think about it. If you use aftermarket adjustable arms to play around with your suspension your rear tie rods will be replaced. And those units which would usually handle the rear wheel steering are now switched in place of something different. I dont know how different and how it works but just a theory.
Soo another question…jsut say im going to put in a 89- 90 open diff…welded, do i need to buy a ABS open diff to weld …or does it matter…? trying to avoid changeing dirve shafts ans my car was abs…took it out though lol
i heard there were size differences thats why i wonder thats all…
also anyone have a open diff they wanna sell ? 
Sorry for the thread revive, but i’m still a little uncertain about this subject. I’ve compiled the following for my swap
NON-hicas PS pump
NON-hicas subframe
Aftermarket multilink
I’m looking for a resevoir, but is it entirely necessary to have a nonhicas ps resevoir? And will i need NON-hicas PS lines? In regards to the rear lines i was just going to leave them there since once the pump is in they arent really doing anything.
In regards to Martino’s post above, is it entirely necessary to remove the electronic portion of hicas or can i just leave it there to chill?
I’m pretty sure i’ve touched all the bases, but can someone just verify for me as i’m looking to have the swap done within the month.
Sorry, but why not just toss in a lock bar of some brand and call it a day?
It does the exact same thing, except you still have some unnecessary weight. Right?
Cal it isn’t necessary to remove the electronics however It’s just wasted space after all is said and done.
You don’t really need to look for a Non-HICAS ps reservoir unless you don’t want to find a way to plug the extra line adapter off of it.
Put lock bar in for drifting/drag and what have you
Put hicas rack back in for street/dd use.
Simple. Cheap and effective.
HICAS sucks on the highway. You know that feeling when your doing over 100 KM/H, where your rear end feels unstable and wavy? HICAS helped that…
Yes, BUT I like how I can maneuver tight corners and bends at over 150km’h with HICAS.
Then again, we shall see which I like better once I get the lock bar.
BTW, drifting with HICAS fucking BLOWS!
No it doesn’t.
It’s not as hard as people make it seem. I drifted the entire season with it…
I have yet to drift on a track…just to me. It’s the kick back. I just drift around once in a while in big ass lots…Pete knows a good place.
I can keep the drift easily…just when you go to bring her around…fuck man. Gotta get the hang of it lol
Track and steet are completely different, especially when you have no real direction In which your going. Give me you car with the RB and hicas and I’ll show you how that combo is done.
All last year I drifted the track with blown suspension, hicas, and a stock KA and I could connect turns at shanny quite easily. on the last track day is when I had my welded and the RB, which obviosuly made another huge difference…but I still had hicas.
This year os going to be completely different with the 180.
Alright well ive spend the last few weeks getting a JDM non hicas subframe …preping it for install. solid subframe bushings too although not going ot change to multilink yet…i will in the future. people say just use a lock bar but ide a rather do a whole refresher on it if im going to do the job…bushing ect…even though noone sees the subframe lol
i plan to do the swap this weekend and use the hicas PS pump and hicas resiviour and remove everything elese…lines…ect…
going to cap the hicas part of the resiviour and pump…becasue the pump still works so why waste it…for now anyways…
heres a picture of the subframe before and after!!
i am hopeing to use the diff that came with the jdm frame…but ive hears theres differences for ABS and non ABS…ect…so ill see how it goes…
that looks golden 
pure sex