Ok so I’ve talked to about 20 sonx240sx members and it seems none of them have had hicas to begin with and i’m on of the lucky ones with it… so whomever I’ve spoken to they don’t quite know how to remove it.
I’ve been searching around and I haven’t been really getting clear cut answers from people, it seems most people I ran across never had one to begin with… so I’ve been out of luck.
In my search though I’ve come across “eliminators”/“cancelation kits”.
Now from what I understand they lock the system but leave the thing in place? Or? I’m confused…
I would like to if possible get rid of the units completely… anyone on here with experience on this? I’ve found a variety of things from 50 bux to 300 bux… and none of them quite clear on whether thye are for complete removal or just ‘lock’. Plus if they look, what about electronics, I read that there is some sensor or something that has to be eliminated too. I’m not quite sure…
undo driveshaft,
remove brakes,
4 nuts hold it on and 2 little bolts hold on cups (subframe mounting points)
remove rear lines
If you have the subframe out you might aswell do bushings, and depending on what your working with you may need a VLSD, it worthwhile to do with the subframe out.
I would suggest changing the PS pump, and lines to proper 2 wheel steering ones.
just disabling the system electronically puts the whole system into lock via failsafe solenoids, but I wouldn’t trust them that long
Doing this at a shop with a hoist and tranny jack will save time and effort
do it on the cheep. disconnect the lines going to the rear rack, connect the rear rack in and outputs togeather. remove the dust covers on the inner tie rods on the rear rack. Measure the gap between the rack and the tie rod…have spacers made up, or just use washers. Install, have acar aligned. Remove all the rest of the hicas crap and modify your ps pump to work without hicas.
sounds pretty easy to change the rear subframe…thats what im gonna do thanks alot s13GG it puts everything into perspective…and i might aswell do the bushings at the same time!!
That’s the best solution without a doubt. I have HICAS and have been planning to remove it for a long time, so I’ve done a lot of research but I’m just too lazy to actually do it. The lock bars will work well, but you still have all that extra weight to deal with in the end.
That being said though, good luck finding a mint pre-91 Subframe to swap in though…(unless you wanna look around in the states for a newer/better shape one)
I have a Kazama HICAS eliminator bar for sale, It’s slightly used, I bought it for $220 but I can let it go for like $175? I haven’t used it at all, it’s mint. and it’s JDM-TYTE!!! Can’t fuck with that.
you don’t need a pre 91 subframe; because, HICAS was optional on hatches, not all have it. Also the coupe (never offered with HICAS) has the required subframe…
so any non-hicas 89-94 s13 subframe will work…coupe or hatch
The difference is barely noticeable, even when drifting. The reason it’s bad for drifting though, is 1. a bit of weight, 2. tie rods snap like skinny sluts, 3. power steering lines that run to the back like to fall off and piss all over the track (that’s from personal experience, lmfao).
i removed hecas on a few customers cars. i removed all the lines, valves, reaer rack ect. took some mesurements made up some lock rods, put grease fitttings in tie rods, made brass bushings for the inner, put a grease fitting on inner,works mint.
heres a pic,
i forget who… hmm and yeah…