Anyone have any links to a how to guide i know its fairly basic to do, but ide just like something to follow before i start it on how to do this, ive searched a few sites and cant find anything decent.
im going to swap my hicas subframe for a non hicas subframe and install aluminum bushings what about the lines that go to the front of the car? and the hicas pump what do i do there?
Well i havent gotten the subframe yet but when i do ( this weekend i hope) it will be a complete one with a diff ect all the parts so i wont have to peice it together.
i have a question about the PS pump though since i have a SR…what is the difference in changeing the pump,as far as i know my SR came from a Hicas model 180sx…so maybe i wont have to change it ?
i havent looked over the lines to well but from what i can see there are 2 lines going back ? could you jsut cap them or run them into each other ?
Did u mean from a non hicas model 180sx.? if so you dont have to change it… im not sure whether the sr cars came with hicas but the hicas pumps are alot bigger so just compare ur pump with some1 that got another sr
No im pretty surem y Sr was from a hicas car because the steering wheel that came on the clip said super hicas… no one around here has an SR for me to look at really lol…im trying to find on nico or zilvia a write up …but so far…nothing!
would a lock bar work? like what they skyline guys use?? also tomei makes a little kit that locks the rear rack and electronicaly disables the hicas… its like less then 200 bucks
Remove all necessary electronics involving HICAS (Located under the main fuse box in the engine bay)
Remove all rear lines
Swap subframes
Option 2 - Get a new pump
Continue 2 through 5 from above
The subframe will 95% come with everything you need to do a direct swap. Japan direct has some really good sub-frames that even come with practically new e-brake cables. I’d suggest getting solid sub-frame bushings during the process as well.
Other than being VERY careful when removing the hard lines that run along the bottom of the car, seeing as how they’re brittle when rusted because of the clips holding water, that’s the basics of getting rid of HICAS.
I originally thought it was hard, but came to learn its ease, especially when you have the time and space to do it.
no more than friggin 20 pounds. everyone just jumps on the “fuck hicas” band wagon. stupid if you ask me.
get the best of both friggin worlds and invest in a lock bar for when you wanna fuck around…thats all. then put er back to normal the way she is supposed to be
I’ve come to completely ignore hicas. But i’m ridding myself of it since i’m putting together my multilink. Hicas apparently isnt too friendly with aftermarket adjustable arms.