Pretty much sums it up.
People can claim bolt ins are safe and what not. Won’t convince me that’s for sure. And I’ll still think your a 'tard 
I see bolt ins as taking the cheap way out. If you’ve gone through the trouble of adding a cage you might as well do it right. You’re adding the cage for a reason right?
LOLLL is that so called roll cage… or is that a U bend? its like 2 points maybe 4…but all the stress goes to that 2 points and goes through the floor
I will agree with others. If you are serious about what you are doing then welding it in solid is the way to go. But many people do not know what a properly designed bolt in cage looks like and are just use to seeing this…
If that bolt sheers then the other bars will simply fall out of place and the only thing they are relaying on for strength is that bolt! The cage is not re-enforced with gussets at the joining points and neither the main hoop or rear stays are braced.
That is how it can be safely done. You weld couplers onto the main hoop which everything slides into by a good 3’’ and is literally jammed/wedged into place so that it all slides together. The couplers themselves are gusseted and re-enforced to the main hoop. You then drill two different holes, one vertical and one horizontal to cris-cross the bolts. So now even if you magically manage to sheer those two bolts a part you then have to break the welds and sheer the coupler/gussets away from the main hoop so that the cage itself can then fall a part.
Cusco Cages are also 1.25’’ x .083 without any bracing and no re-enforcements.
Properly made bolt in cage for a 240 would be 2.25’’ x .120’’ main hoop/pillars etc with 2.50’’ x .120’’ couplers that are braced, gusseted and re-enforced with 3/16’’ feet plates with the bottoms being over sized and welded solid to the floor so that you actually sandwich the cage between the chassis and relay on the two 3/16’’ plates and not the 18-20ga tin the floor is made from.