at first i thought maybe assembly error but the ammount of play between the bearings and the rod caps make me think his bearings may have the wrong ones. I could see an assembly error fucking up 1 or 2 rods at the most but the guy who built it seemed like he knew his shit for the most part on the technical side. If all the bearings are they same im gonna lean toward the problem being in the parts. I mean if you saw how much play there was youd be like WTF and i dont think they warped out that much unless they shrunk significantly even with the wear the bearings barely fit around the crank the needed to be forced on but move freely in the rob cap.
and HRK i was making a blatent joke when i said no way im measuring the rods of course that will happen if he keep the setup.
I can’t view the pics but… without seeing any.
it’s not a matter of “Thinking” it should be machined or not. The engine is built with specific tolerences. Find the number and check the tolerances. It’ll be a yes/no answer, no thinking.
But my mentality has always been… “just replace it if it’s in question” There’s nothing worse than every time you hear something or feel something in the engine bay you start thinking the worse case scenerio because you cut corners.
For me it’s worth putting my mind at ease to just fix it THE BEST WAY I can. It’ll be cheaper than having to pull the motor a 2nd time.
Those red Xs look bad. I’d buy a whole new engine if I were you.
the new shortblock is quite a price
i think at this point it is ur best bet though
just buy it, drop it in and dont worry about the bottom end too much anymore
like lafengas said, you will feel better just knowing that everything is assembled correctly with correct parts
the knock strarted right after i was able to put a load on the engine. i first noticed it on my way back from getting the car tunned and we thought it was the turbo… two days later the turbo broke. so we replace the turbo start the car up… let it idle for abou5 mins rev it up by the thortle and then i heard the same awfull noise again. As far as milies the internals probally have about 800 milies on them. if that. i bought them brand new and put about 800 milies on them.
i am really not sure what happend to them but i belive i might of gotten the wrong ones or something.
yea don’t use that crank again…save yourself another headache down the road…
ugh…I know what you are going through dude.
It just doesn’t stop…
you’ll be needing that
time for a built short block…or back to stock
Looks like a quality engine builder…
lol tapped out on those sources for a bit.
But thanks for the link asshole.:tup:
to be honest with you guys, i really just want to know wtf happend. if i got bad bearings or if i oil starved them some how. if i got the wrong bearings…
who did your bearing clearances? Are they sloppy fits like OEM v8s or tight, direct fit ones? What clearances did you decide to run? I think on my nissan, it was supposed to be .0018-.0030 but i am not positive… That was a few years ago… Who mic’ed up your rods and crank?
i got the OEM GTE bearings… They have dffernet size bearings, you minus the number on the rod to the crank and you will get a number trough 1-5. So the bearings were never checked for clearance. atleast what i am aware of.
Ok, so the rods were new and came premarked, but how many miles were on the crank? It was never mic’ed up? I would have clearanced them man…
i know u gotta be over the 10k mark already?? whats another 2500 or so
meh find a low milage motor…do a Port and Polish, Valve jobo on the head…header back exhaust and bump the timing and has an NA car with some go
Damn Dos, your GE does not like you at all. GL with it all.